North America 2003: Somewhere Over the Pacific — On the Way to LA
Our 2003 adventure kicked off with a flight from Perth to Sydney, then on to Los Angeles. We spent three fantastic weeks with our eldest son Ryan and his girlfriend Michelle before setting off on our own to explore Canada and the USA over the next three weeks.
The journey home included a stopover in Hawaii — truly a wonderful experience.
We’ve compiled our memories from this trip onto this website in 2010, nearly seven years later, and we’ll do our best to share the highlights!
Flight Details:
Depart Perth: Monday, 31 March 2003, Qantas Flight 574 at 6:10 am
Arrive Sydney: Monday, 31 March 2003, at 12:25 pm
Depart Sydney: Monday, 31 March 2003, Qantas Flight 11 at 3:00 pm
Arrive Los Angeles: Monday, 31 March 2003, at 10:25 am
Depart Los Angeles: Saturday, 24 May 2003, Qantas 3256 (American Airlines) at 9:15 am
Arrive Honolulu: Saturday, 24 May 2003, at 11:55 am
Depart Honolulu: Tuesday, 27 May 2003, Qantas Flight 4 at 1:00 am
Arrive Sydney: Thursday, 29 May 2003, at 7:00 am
Depart Sydney: Thursday, 29 May 2003, Qantas Flight 575 at 9:25 am
Arrive Perth: Thursday, 29 May 2003, at 12:15 pm
Starting Out — 2003
29th March 2003
Just a couple of days before our big trip, on Saturday 29th March, Rayls, Ryan, Scott, and I all headed to the Kenwick Cricket Club for their end-of-season gathering. Ryan helped out behind the bar, showing off his skills as the barman extraordinaire. Scott and I were there as players, and Rayls was the proud wife and mother cheering us all on.
That night was memorable for another reason — it was the last wind-up attended by our good friend Jim McKenna. Sadly, he passed away the following October. It made the night a bit poignant, but also reminded us how special moments like these are.
The excitement was building because in just around 36 hours, we’d be on our way to start our adventure.
31st March 2003
The day had finally arrived. We flew out of Perth at the very early hour of 6:10 am. I don’t remember much about the flight to Sydney — we must have gotten to the airport nice and early (I have a habit of doing that). Saying goodbye to our dog, Hunter, was always a bit tough. Hunter was just 2 years old and stayed behind with our youngest son Scott, who’d turn 20 while we were away. We were going to miss Scott, too.
In Sydney, we had to catch the shuttle bus from the domestic terminal to the international terminal — they run every 10 minutes or so. After going through immigration, we entered the departure area and, as usual, passed the tempting but expensive shops.
Security was a bit of a random affair — Ryan and Michelle somehow avoided being searched, but Rayls and I, the “mature-aged” travelers, were pulled aside. I was a little miffed by that!
On the plane, Ryan and Michelle were seated a few rows ahead of us. We were towards the back but not in the “just aisle and window” section, so we had a friendly aisle neighbor to bother when we needed to visit the facilities.
Takeoff felt very long — I started to worry if we’d make it down the runway, but the big 747 finally lifted off, fully loaded with people, luggage, and enough fuel to cross the Pacific. It definitely needed that runway length!
We flew east, enjoying daylight for a few hours, then plunged into about eight hours of darkness before daylight returned as we approached Los Angeles. There were a few bumps along the way, but overall it was a smooth flight.
Los Angeles
31st March 2003
After landing at LAX, we breezed through immigration and customs with no issues. Soon we were on the shuttle bus heading to the Alamo rental car depot, where we picked up our ride for the trip — a sleek Buick Rendezvous SUV, perfect for the four of us and all our gear.
The rest of the afternoon was pretty relaxed. We made our way to the Days Inn in Buena Park, just near Anaheim and about 20 miles from downtown LA. After settling in, we did some shopping to stock up for the days ahead.
1st April 2003
We spent today driving from Buena Park down to Long Beach to check out the Queen Mary — a real beauty of a ship. After that, we headed up to Hollywood for some classic tourist stops: Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, the Walk of Fame, and even took a drive through Beverly Hills to stroll along the famous Rodeo Drive.
2nd April 2003
Michelle wasn’t feeling the best today, so Ryan stayed behind at the hotel with her while Rayls and I went shopping. We visited Robinsons May and a bunch of other stores — lots to see!
In the evening, Ryan, Rayls, and I headed to Warner Brothers Studios in Hollywood to watch a taping of The Drew Carey Show. A pretty cool behind-the-scenes experience.
3rd April 2003
A long, fun day at Disneyland! Plenty of magic and memories made — including some photo ops with Pluto himself.
4th April 2003
Another full day out, this time at Universal Studios. So much to see and do!
5th April 2003
We stayed close to the hotel today and went to Knott’s Berry Farm, which was just a short walk away.
6th April 2003
Back into LA for more sightseeing. We took a stroll along Venice Beach — you meet all sorts of characters there.
Checked out more stars on the Walk of Fame and drove through Beverly Hills trying to spot some celebrity homes. Brad and Jennifer’s place was under renovation, so no paparazzi moments there!
Later, we ventured up into the Hollywood Hills and got as close as we could to the famous Hollywood sign — those roads are narrow!
Finally, we cruised through downtown LA on our way back to Buena Park and our hotel. Tomorrow, we’re off to San Diego!
San Diego and Tijuana
Monday 7th April 2003
After nearly a week in LA, it was time to hit the road and head down about 100 miles to San Diego.
On the way, we stopped to visit a friend we’d met in Australia a few months earlier — Karen. She had visited Perth and even took a tour on my tourist bus back then. When we told her we’d be visiting the USA soon, she kindly invited us to catch up.
Karen took the four of us to a stunning restaurant right on the beach. The setting was beautiful, the lunch was great, and the company even better. After some good chats, we were back on the road.
Thanks to Karen’s directions, we found our way to Hotel Circle, just north of San Diego, where we stayed for a few nights at a tiny Super 8 motel. This was before we discovered Priceline and Hotwire — so, room standards weren’t exactly luxury!
That late afternoon, we explored downtown San Diego — a really lovely place that reminded us a lot of Perth. The airport is close to the city, and planes were constantly landing and taking off — pretty cool to watch.
Tuesday 8th April 2003
Today was all about Seaworld. We had a fantastic time checking out the shows and marine life.
Wednesday 9th April 2003
We visited the world-famous San Diego Zoo today. We even caught sight of a panda! Although, for an old bloke like me, all the hills were a bit much.
For dinner, Michelle picked Hunter Steakhouse, not far from our hotel. The server had a bit of flair, and the food — especially the sourdough bread — was amazing. We’re still talking about it seven years later!
Thursday 10th April 2003
We checked out early, packed up the SUV (so packed that we backed it up to a wall to stop the rear door from opening), and caught a shuttle bus downtown.
From there, we boarded a larger coach heading south — into Mexico! We spent around three hours exploring Tijuana. Definitely an interesting experience.
Crossing back into the USA was much harder than crossing into Mexico, but soon enough we were back in San Diego for a quick tour before heading back to the hotel.
After grabbing the car, we went out for a late lunch, then hit the road on I-15 — a highway we’d come to know well over the next few weeks.
About 300 miles and darkness later, we rolled into Las Vegas. Not knowing about Priceline meant we ended up at a pretty rough Days Inn. But we’d be back in Vegas soon enough — for now, it was just a quick night’s sleep before surprising Amy in Cedar City.
Las Vegas and onto Cedar City
Friday, 11th April 2003 – Vegas Lights and a Cedar City Surprise
We arrived in Las Vegas under the cover of darkness, and as always, a drive down the Strip was pure entertainment. Neon lights, bustling crowds, and the over-the-top Vegas vibe — it never disappoints.
This time, we stayed at a Super 8 out in the Fremont Street area. Looking back, that might’ve been a misstep — probably worth spending a little more to stay at one of the nicer hotels on the Strip. But hey, we were there, and the adventure had begun.
After a good night’s sleep, we hit the road and made our way to Cedar City — a couple of days earlier than Amy expected us. Our goal? A surprise visit!
It was my first time driving that route, and it didn’t disappoint. The Virgin River Gorge was a highlight — winding through rugged canyon walls, it’s a drive that keeps you alert and amazed. We passed through St. George, then rolled into Cedar City, our “home away from home.”
Steve had set the perfect scene: lunch at Market Grill. He told Amy to meet him there — and we casually showed up. Amy’s face was priceless. She was beyond surprised, and there were hugs all around. Mission accomplished.
Now, full disclosure — everything from this post forward is being written in 2025. I was 48 back on that 2003 trip. For some reason, I never finished writing this blog at the time, and it’s been sitting incomplete ever since. But it’s time to change that.
I’ve got a photo book from the trip, which should help jog the memory, even if a few details have faded over time. Let’s see how we go…
April 2003 – Snow, Stars, and Something Watching in the Desert
After our surprise arrival in Cedar City, we settled into what felt like our second home. The days that followed were filled with firsts, falls, and a few flying objects — some real, some possibly… not.
A Ski Adventure at Brian Head (Emphasis on “Adventure”)
According to the photo book — which thankfully remembers more than I do — we made a trip up to Brian Head for a bit of skiing. And when I say “skiing,” I mean I gave it a red-hot go… once.
It was my first time ever in ski boots, and wow, are those things snug. I waddled out onto what can only be described as the pre-bunny slope, took a deep breath, and promptly fell heavily, smacking my head on the icy surface. That was enough for me. I dragged myself and my bruised pride back to the car, returned the gear, and declared my ski career officially over.
But the day wasn’t finished with me yet. As I left the main building, I slipped on the metal steps, again landing hard. My head was swimming for days. If I had a helmet, it was no match for my technique.
Rayls never skied — smart woman — but she sure looked the part in her stylish ski outfit. She had the look of a pro… and none of the bruises.
Later that afternoon, back in Cedar City, we soaked in Amy’s outdoor hot tub, with snow falling gently around us. Sitting in that warm water with icy flakes landing on our shoulders was surreal — and exactly what my battered body needed.
Viva Las Vegas (with a Side of Aussie Dollars)
On April 17, the whole crew — including Amy and Steve — headed back to Las Vegas for a few days of classic tourist fun. We did all the must-dos: walked the Strip, saw the lights, and enjoyed a dinner at an Outback Restaurant, of all places.
Trying to be cheeky, I offered to pay with Australian money. Steve didn’t miss a beat:
“Your money’s no good here!”
We all had a good laugh at that one.
I also remember Ryan sampling a couple of Long Island Iced Teas, which seemed to go down very well. Vegas always brings the stories.
Back in the Air – Steve’s Cessna Flight
By April 20, we were back in Cedar City, and Steve had a special treat lined up — a flight in his Cessna. What a thrill!
We soared above the desert and over the Grand Canyon, taking in views you just can’t get from the road. It’s a completely different perspective, seeing the vastness of the land from above. Smooth flying, and a memory that sticks with me.
Close Encounters on the Road to Rachel
On April 22, after one last goodbye (for now) to Cedar City, I set off west — destination: Rachel, Nevada, home of Area 51 and the quirky, dusty stretch of road known as the Extraterrestrial Highway.
We took UT-56 west, winding through Newcastle, Enterprise, and past Modena, where Utah slowly fades and the Nevada desert takes over. The land opened up before us — vast, empty, silent. No traffic. No towns. Just the occasional jackrabbit and the whisper of desert wind.
Eventually, we joined NV-375, officially the Extraterrestrial Highway. Suddenly, road signs got weirder, and the sense of isolation turned into curiosity… and maybe a little unease.
We made a stop at the Little A’Le’Inn, the heart of Rachel, for some alien-themed food and fun. The place is small but full of character. And in a town with more flying saucer references than residents, it fits perfectly.
There’s something about Rachel. Whether it’s the silence, the space, or the sense that someone (or something) is always watching.
On the way back we drove off the beaten track to check out Area 51. That’s when we saw it — a black car parked high on a hill, overlooking a dirt road that supposedly led toward the Area 51 gates. It didn’t move. Just sat there. We could clearly see someone inside, watching.
We stopped for a moment, just to take it in. The car never budged. No wave. No flash of lights. Just presence. Watching.
We decided not to push our luck. Turned around and headed back — with a new story to tell.
A Walk Through Zion – and a Surprise Bombers Chat
Somewhere amidst all the road trips, alien encounters, and ski slope mishaps, we made time for something truly peaceful — a visit to the breathtaking Zion National Park.
We took a scenic drive from Cedar City down to Zion, and as always, the park didn’t disappoint. Towering red cliffs, narrow canyons, and that feeling of quiet grandeur you only get in places like this. We took a pleasant walk through the canyon — not a strenuous hike, just enough to soak in the towering rock walls and the gentle sound of the Virgin River trickling beside us.
It was during this walk that we had one of those random, classic travel moments. Out of nowhere, we bumped into a fellow Essendon supporter! There we were, deep in a national park in southern Utah, and suddenly we’re talking AFL footy as if we were back at the MCG.
We chatted for a while, covering all the important things — team form, past glory, hopes for the season ahead. Poor Amy stood there, completely lost, smiling politely while clearly wondering what language we were even speaking. Footy talk is second nature to us, but to the uninitiated (especially Americans), it’s practically a secret code.
Still, it was one of those comforting little moments — finding a piece of home in the most unexpected place.
After our walk, we drove back to Cedar City feeling refreshed and grateful. Zion gave us a chance to slow down, stretch the legs, and reconnect with nature — and the Bombers.
Final Thoughts
This stretch of our 2003 trip had it all: ski slopes and bruised heads, desert skies and mystery hills, hot tubs in the snow, and the bright lights of Vegas. And somewhere along the way, we felt the pull of the strange and the familiar — the mix that makes every good road trip worth remembering.
Now, over 20 years later, it’s a joy to look back and finally put these memories into words.
Yosemite and Beyond
A Car Switch That Wasn’t, Ansett in the Desert, and a Night in Stockton
Looking back now, 22 years later, I honestly can’t remember why, but our rental car was due back in Las Vegas and we were supposed to swap it for another one. With four of us plus luggage, the thought of unloading and reloading everything wasn’t exactly appealing.
At the Alamo counter, I asked if we could just keep the same car. To my surprise, they said yes without hesitation. No fuss, no forms — off we went.
We left Las Vegas and headed west on I-15, through the Mojave Desert. We passed through Barstow, then turned onto Highway 58 toward California.
Near Mojave, we spotted something unexpected — an airplane graveyard. Dozens of old planes lined up in the desert sun, including, oddly enough, an old Ansett jet. A bit of Australia, parked permanently in the California dust.
Further on, we drove past lots of wind turbines. At first they were impressive… and then they just kept going.
Yosemite – Scenic, Serene, and Simple
We made a stop at Yosemite National Park, and even after all the places we’d seen, it still stood out.
No hiking or adventure — just a peaceful walk, some amazing views, and a chance to take it all in.
No strange incidents, no injuries, and no footy conversations to confuse the locals.
We ended the day in Stockton — nothing memorable, just somewhere to rest for the night.
San Francisco – Cable Cars, Alcatraz, and a Surprise Aussie PM
My memories of San Francisco are a bit fuzzy, but a few moments definitely stand out.
We stayed in a hotel in Daly City, just outside the city proper. I remember a KFC nearby — handy, but not exactly fine dining. The four of us walked in together one night and were greeted by a fairly unsavoury character loitering out front. So we came up with a plan: Ryan would lead the way back to the car, I’d take the rear, and the ladies would stay in between — like we were on some kind of secret service op.
We walked out ready for anything… but the guy had vanished. Still, better to be overprepared than caught off guard.
On 1st May 2003, we headed into the city and made our way to Fisherman’s Wharf. Parking was eye-watering, but what can you do?
We caught the ferry to Alcatraz, and that was definitely worth it — full of fascinating history and fantastic views back toward the city. After exploring the prison, we returned to the wharf and walked to the cable car turnaround. We hopped on for the classic ride into downtown.
For some reason, Ryan and I ended up with seats while Rayls and Michelle had to hang off the side. Not intentional, but I don’t think they’ve forgotten it.
It was a return trip, and when we got back to the wharf, we noticed a crowd: black limos, police everywhere — something was clearly going on. We asked a nearby officer what all the fuss was about, and he casually told us, “The Prime Minister of Australia is here.”
Wait, what?
Sure enough, John Howard had just returned from visiting Alcatraz — same as us! Ryan and I headed back toward the harbour and managed to walk right up to him. We shook hands, had a quick chat, and even got a photo together.
Very unexpected. Very cool.
We returned to tell Rayls and Michelle, just in time to wave to the motorcade as it pulled away.
Peanuts, the Golden Gate, and a Worried Waiter
On 2nd May 2003, we crossed the Golden Gate Bridge and headed north to Santa Rosa, our main goal being the gravesite of Charles M. Schulz, the creator of Peanuts. As lifelong fans, it felt special to pause there. We then toured the Charles M. Schulz Museum, filled with original artwork, history, and plenty of Snoopy — a must-see for any fan.
Back in San Francisco, we walked part of the Golden Gate itself. The views were stunning, though the drop below was a little unnerving! Lunch at the Hard Rock Café wrapped up the day. Our waiter was thrilled we were from Australia — until he learned about higher wages and no tipping back home. His face said it all!
The Farewell at Oakland and a New Chapter Begins
On 3rd May 2003, it was time to say goodbye to Ryan and Michelle, who flew out from Oakland Airport. Their holiday was ending with a few days in Hawaii before heading home to Australia — not a bad way to wrap up a trip!
With them gone, it was just Rayls and me, ready to start the next leg of our adventure: a long road trip that would eventually take us all the way to Canada and back. There wasn’t much on the agenda that day, but it felt like the start of a new chapter — fewer people, more miles, and plenty of memories still waiting to be made.
From Farewell to Crater Lake
After leaving Ryan and Michelle at Oakland Airport on 3rd May, Rayls and I pointed the car north and began the long journey toward Canada — but first, we had a scenic detour in mind: Crater Lake.
The drive took us through some lovely countryside as we left the sprawl of the Bay Area behind. The traffic thinned out, the air cooled, and before long we were back in wide open spaces — just the two of us and the road.
We reached Crater Lake National Park the next day, and it was absolutely worth the detour. Because of the time of year, much of the area was still snowed in, but from what we could see, the lake itself was stunning — a deep, brilliant blue, perfectly still, and surrounded by snowy cliffs that felt like they’d been there forever.
It’s the kind of view that makes you pause and say, “Yep, this is why we came.”
There was snow on the ground in many spots, which was a bit of a novelty for us. We took in the scenery, snapped a few photos, and enjoyed the crisp mountain air. It was quiet, peaceful, and the perfect reset after the busyness of San Francisco.
Crater Lake was one of those places that felt both remote and special — not somewhere you just happen to pass through, but somewhere you make the effort to reach. And we were glad we did.
From Crater Lake to Portland and Seattle
After soaking in the beauty of Crater Lake, we continued heading north, with Portland, Oregon as our next stop. The drive took us through beautiful forested areas and small towns — a quieter, greener stretch of America.
Portland had a very different vibe to the places we’d been so far. A bit quirky, laid-back, and full of character. We didn’t have a packed itinerary — just took some time to wander, enjoy a nice meal or two, and soak in the atmosphere. It felt like a great place to catch our breath a little.
From there, we pushed on to Seattle, a city I’d always wanted to see. The famous Space Needle, the waterfront, and of course Pike Place Market — all the must-sees got a visit. I remember watching the guys throw fish around at the market and wondering how they didn’t smack a tourist in the head.
Seattle had a cool energy to it — bigger and busier than Portland, but still relaxed in its own way. It was fun being in a city that felt both modern and scenic, with snow-capped mountains in the distance and ferries coming and going across Puget Sound.
It felt like we were well and truly on the road now — just the two of us, the Pacific Northwest, and Canada on the horizon.
The Boeing Factory – Big Planes and Bigger Claims
While we were in Seattle, we made sure to visit the Boeing Factory — and let me tell you, that was an experience.
The scale of the place is hard to describe. The assembly building is enormous, and I’m pretty sure the tour guide told us about 17 times that it’s the largest building in the world by volume. In case we missed it the first 16.
But to be fair, it was impressive — rows of jets in various stages of construction, parts the size of small houses being moved around like LEGO, and the kind of organised chaos that somehow results in flying machines.
It’s the sort of place where even if you’re not into planes, you walk out saying, “Well… that was actually pretty cool.”
Crossing into Canada – Hello, Vancouver
On 8th May, we crossed the border into Canada and rolled into Vancouver — our first visit, and it immediately felt different. Driving across a border always seems more adventurous than flying: the signs change, the accents shift, and suddenly the maths of currency conversion kicks in.
Vancouver was stunning — clean, green, and framed by water and mountains. We didn’t chase a packed itinerary; instead, we wandered the waterfront, explored at a relaxed pace, and soaked in the friendly West Coast vibe.
It marked a quiet milestone in the journey — from Las Vegas to San Francisco and now a new country altogether. Still on the road, still curious, still enjoying the ride.
Stanley Park, Grouse Mountain, and a Full Day in Vancouver
On 8th May, after crossing into Canada and settling into Vancouver, we spent the day exploring two of the city’s highlights — Stanley Park and Grouse Mountain.
Stanley Park was a delight. We strolled along the seawall, breathed in the fresh air, and admired views of the harbour and skyline. It’s easy to see why it’s so loved by locals — peaceful, green, and right at the city’s edge.
Later, we headed up Grouse Mountain for a different perspective. The views from the top were spectacular, stretching across Vancouver and out to the ocean. A light dusting of snow lingered, adding a touch of magic (though we kept our distance after the Brian Head adventure!).
It was the perfect introduction to Canada — a city framed by nature, with friendly people and fresh mountain air.
A Mall, a Hockey Game, and a National Mood
While exploring Vancouver, we stopped by a shopping mall — just a casual visit, until something caught our attention: people weren’t shopping. They were crowding around TVs, utterly absorbed in a hockey game.
It was Game 7 of the Stanley Cup Playoff series between the Vancouver Canucks and the Minnesota Wild. The Canucks had once led the series 3–1, but it had slipped away — and now, on this decisive night, it was all over. Minnesota clinched the series 4–3.
The reaction in the mall said everything. People stood in stunned silence. A few shook their heads. No one really spoke.
That’s when I understood: in Canada, hockey isn’t just a sport — it’s woven into the national identity. And that night, the city’s mood dropped faster than the puck.
Heading East – A Stop in Hope
On 9th May, we said goodbye to Vancouver and began our journey east toward Calgary, heading into the heart of British Columbia.
One of our first stops was a little town called Hope — and it turned out to be memorable. We pulled in for fuel, and while filling up I struck up a chat with the bloke at the servo. He was one of those friendly, salt-of-the-earth types who just enjoys a yarn. As we talked, a long goods train rattled slowly along the track across the road — the kind that seems to go on forever.
He mentioned he’d never left Canada, but with a grin, added: “I live in Hope.” Can’t argue with that.
It was one of those small, unexpected moments that sticks with you — a quiet reminder that not every great story has to be loud. Then it was back on the road, heading deeper into the mountains and toward the next leg of our Canadian adventure.
Into the Rockies – Scenic Roads and a Dirty Car
After fuelling up in Hope and enjoying that little chat with the local, we hit the road again — this time heading straight into the magnificent scenery of the Canadian Rockies.
And wow — just, wow.
The drive was one of the most beautiful stretches we’d seen so far. Towering peaks, thick forests, rivers rushing alongside the highway — postcard-perfect around every bend. It was hard not to keep pulling over just to stare.
We ended the day in Kamloops, where we checked into what I think was a Days Inn. Nothing too fancy, but we had a nice view from the room, and after a big day on the road, that was more than enough.
The car by this point looked like it had been off-roading in a swamp — caked in mud and slush from the snowy mountain roads. I figured it was a rental and would probably get filthy again soon, but still… it was too much.
So I took it through a carwash.
Sometimes you just need a little reset — even if it’s just for the car.
Lake Louise – Not Quite the Postcard, But Still Worth It
After our overnight stop in Kamloops, we hit the road again on 10th May, heading toward one of the most anticipated stops of the trip: Lake Louise.
Our Aussie friend Jim had raved about it, so we were pretty excited to see it for ourselves.
Unfortunately… it wasn’t quite what we’d imagined.
There was construction going on at the main building — not exactly the peaceful, iconic vista we’d been picturing. And the lake itself was still mostly frozen and looking a bit dirty, more grey than turquoise. It felt like we were about two months too early.
That said, we could definitely see the potential. The setting was still stunning, surrounded by snow-covered peaks, and we knew that in the right season it must be absolutely breathtaking.
From there, we made our way to Banff, which was much more enjoyable. We took a walk around town, soaking in the alpine charm — a postcard village nestled in the mountains. It had that crisp mountain air and relaxed ski-town vibe.
After a bit of exploring, we continued on to Calgary, where we spent the night. It marked the end of the mountainous leg of our journey — and the start of our trek back south.
ChatGPT said:
A New Plan, Custer’s Last Stand, and Cowboys in Spurs
One of the things we discussed over dinner at the Applemill Restaurant in Great Falls — somewhere between the bread rolls and dessert — was our next move. We had a choice: head straight down I-15 and be back in Cedar City fairly quickly, or take the long way through South Dakota and see a bit more of the country.
Naturally, we went with the long way.
So the next morning, we pointed the car southeast, passing through Billings, Montana on our way to Rapid City. Not long after Billings, we came across a surprise.
If someone had asked me back then where the Little Bighorn Battlefield was, I probably would’ve said Texas. But there we were, driving along and seeing signs for Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument — the site of Custer’s Last Stand.
We pulled in and spent a couple of hours exploring the site. It was fascinating and moving — wide open plains, historic markers, and a real sense of the tension and tragedy that played out there. Definitely one of those stops that wasn’t planned, but ended up being a highlight.
We continued on into Wyoming, eventually stopping in Gillette for the night.
It was 11th May — Mother’s Day, so we went out for a nice dinner — I’m fairly sure it was at an Applebee’s. The food was good, but what stood out was the atmosphere.
Plenty of the patrons were dressed as cowboys, complete with hats and boots. And the part we found strangest? There were young boys — maybe 10 or 11 years old — wearing spurs on their boots. Actual spurs, clinking on the restaurant floor like it was totally normal.
Definitely not something you’d see at a Mother’s Day dinner back home.
Bears, Bugs, and a Dirty Car (Again)
On 12th May, we continued our eastward journey and made it to Rapid City, South Dakota — then turned south toward one of the most iconic landmarks in the U.S.: Mount Rushmore.
But before we got there, we stumbled across something a little unexpected and a lot of fun — Bear Country U.S.A.
Just eight miles south of Rapid City, Bear Country is spread across over 200 acres of pine forests and rolling meadows. It’s a drive-through wildlife park, and honestly, it was fantastic.
We took the slow three-mile drive through the animal enclosures, spotting everything from black bears and bison to elk, reindeer, mountain lions, and even pronghorn — all from the comfort (and safety!) of our car.
The highlight, of course, was the bears. They were everywhere — climbing trees, lounging in the sun, and even licking the dead bugs off the front of our car.
Yes, the car was filthy again. Yes, I’d only recently washed it. And yes, apparently that made it even more appealing to the bears.
It was such a relaxed and entertaining stop, and a bit of light-hearted fun before the more serious faces carved into stone just down the road. A great place, and one we were very glad we didn’t miss.
Mount Rushmore – The Long Way Was Worth It
From Bear Country, we continued further south into the Black Hills of South Dakota, headed for a place that had been high on my must-visit list for years — Mount Rushmore.
This stop was actually one of the main reasons we chose to take the long way back to Cedar City, and it absolutely lived up to the moment.
The Mount Rushmore National Memorial is a massive sculpture carved into the granite of the mountain, depicting four U.S. presidents: George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt, and Abraham Lincoln — each about 60 feet tall and looking out over the landscape.
The scale of it is hard to describe until you see it in person. You’ve seen photos and videos all your life, but standing there, seeing those faces emerge from the rock — it hits differently. It’s impressive, bold, and a little surreal.
The visitor center and museum were also worth the stop, with interactive exhibits and background on how the monument came to be. The story of Gutzon Borglum and his son Lincoln, who directed the project, is fascinating in itself — and adds another layer of appreciation to what you’re looking at.
It was one of those moments that reminded us why we love a good road trip.
Back on the Road – Destination: Cheyenne
After taking in the grandeur of Mount Rushmore, we didn’t linger too long — just soaked up the moment, grabbed a few photos, and then it was back on the road.
We headed southwest, winding our way out of the Black Hills and back into wide open country. The scenery changed from rugged forested hills to sweeping plains, and we settled in for a long but peaceful drive.
Our destination that night was Cheyenne, Wyoming.
Nothing fancy or particularly memorable about the drive — just a solid travel day, making our way slowly back toward Cedar City. After all the wildlife, monuments, and cowboy spurs, Cheyenne was a quiet overnight stop, but still another name on the map and another stretch of highway behind us.
13th May – A Dash Through Denver and a Night in Grand Junction
From Cheyenne, we hit the road again on 13th May, heading south into Colorado. Our goal was to start making our way back toward Cedar City, but not without a few more miles (and a few more sights) along the way.
We passed through Denver, but didn’t stop — it felt like just another big city, and after so many days on the road, we weren’t really in the mood for traffic or sightseeing. We drove through downtown, ticked it off the list, and kept moving.
From there, we headed west on I-70, a beautiful stretch of highway that cuts through the Colorado Rockies. The drive had its share of stunning views — winding roads, rocky cliffs, deep valleys — but by this point in the trip, we were focused on the destination.
We ended the day in Grand Junction, a comfortable stop for the night before continuing west.
Back in Cedar – Recharging Before Hawaii
After our overnight stay in Grand Junction, we made the final leg of the long loop and drove back to Cedar City — arriving sometime around 14th May. From there, the pace of the trip slowed right down.
We spent about a week or so relaxing with Amy and Steve, catching our breath after the thousands of kilometres we’d clocked up over the past few weeks. There were no travel diary entries during this stretch, and that probably says it all — we just unwound, enjoyed some quiet days, and soaked up the feeling of being in our home away from home.
Eventually, it was time to start making our way back toward Australia — but not without one last adventure.
On 23rd May, we drove to Las Vegas, boarded a flight to Los Angeles, and then continued on to Honolulu for the final leg of our journey.
From road trips and red rocks to mountain lakes, cowboys, and Custer — it had already been an incredible trip. But now, it was time to swap the desert for palm trees and enjoy a little island time.
Hawaii
Saturday 24th May, 2001 to Tuesday 27th May, 2001
On 24th May, we boarded our flight from Los Angeles to Honolulu, landing in the tropical warmth of Hawaii for the final chapter of our journey.
Our arrival was suitably stylish — we grabbed a stretch limo taxi that whisked us off to our hotel in Waikiki. After weeks of dusty highways and national parks, this was a definite change of pace… and a very welcome one.
Over the next couple of days — 24th and 25th May — we took in the sights and sounds of the island. We spent time on Waikiki Beach, which was beautiful but a bit rockier than we’d expected. Still, the water was warm, the atmosphere was laid-back, and it was hard to complain.
We also visited two must-see spots:
- Pearl Harbor, a sobering and moving experience — standing on the USS Arizona Memorial, looking down at the oil still rising to the surface, was a moment we won’t forget.
- The Polynesian Cultural Centre, which gave us a vibrant and entertaining look at the diverse cultures of the Pacific Islands. It was about an hour’s bus ride from Waikiki, and our driver made the journey even more memorable by playing the music of Israel Kamakawiwo’ole — known simply as Bruddah Iz.
We’d never heard his music before, but we fell in love with it instantly — that voice, that ukulele, that island soul. His version of Over the Rainbow became the unexpected soundtrack to the end of our trip, and it still brings back memories every time we hear it.
Then, on 27th May, we stood knee-deep in the waters of Waikiki Beach, watching a breathtaking sunset — the perfect way to say goodbye.
Later that evening, we headed to the airport for the long flight home.
