Hartman Travels - UK 2023
Monday 29 May 2023 – Monday 29 May 2023 – Dawesville to London
We started out at 3:30am from our much loved home in Dawesville and Ryan drove us the hour and a bit to the airport.
Check in was about as easy as it gets as was immigration and security. Then the wait for the flight. I was keen for an on time departure because a 45 minute layover in Singapore. No worries there, we pulled from the dock right on time and away we went. Beautiful sunrise as we took off.
Flight to Singapore was OK, seats are very hard on the rear end. Then it was a brisk walk to the London flight and this also left on time, good start but all down hill from here. I started coughing on this flight, no mask – didn’t think I needed one. Closer we go to London the worst I felt. It was a lonnng flight and I was most uncomfortable. The seats are so hard, same as a Transperth bus.
Landed in London just after 7:00pm, I was a mess. Had no clue how to catch a train to London and our hotel although I studied it many times at home. Rayls sorted it out and we ended up on the Heathrow Express and then a Circle line where our train was joined by many soccer ‘hooligans’. We were off at St Pancras and then walked to the hotel. It was after 10pm by the time we arrived at the hotel. The hotel is small with no lift. We were exhausted by the time we fell into bed, my coughing continued and Rayls wasn’t so good either.
Tuesday 30 May 2023 – Covid Confirmed
After an average nights sleep we were up around 9am looking for food, medication and supplies, mainly water.
We went to a Boots pharmacy and bought lozenges and even some RAT tests…… just in case! We ended up at a Burger King at 9:30am for breakfast, it was closed, weird. On to a Maccas a bit further up the road and across from St Pancras Station, I was too spent to stand so Rayls ordered and I sat down and tried one of the RAT tests. Positive! That explained a lot. We walked back to the hotel and Rayls tried a test and she is also positive. Turns out our son Ryan who drove us to the airport is positive also.
The rest of the day was spent in bed with each of us looking after the other depending on who was feeling the best at the time.
Wednesday 31 May 2023 – Still Down
Another day wasted. Just resting, resting and resting some more. I did wander out for more water but that’s the day.
Thursday 1 June 2023 – Ambulance to UCLH
Today we were scheduled to head off on our road trip to Scotland. With assistance from Scott we cancelled other plans and were going to head for another hotel just an hour north of London. It was going to be a task getting our luggage to the Avis car rental place and then the short drive out…. we can do it.
Wrong! at around 10:30am I got up to have a shower, I knew something was wrong but I tried anyway. I remember standing in what is a very small shower and wondering how I was going to get my arms up to wash my hair. Next thing I knew I was down and on the floor. I called Rayls who was in a bad way herself. It took 20 minutes to get up and drag myself to the bed. Problem was that I was having the exact same symptoms as I did when I had a heart attack last year. So Rayls went to reception and an ambulance was called. Two lovely young paramedics, Holly and Katie somehow hauled me to the ambulance and although I was patient 1, Rayls wasn’t too far behind me and she tagged along on the short ride, with siren – maybe lights, I couldn’t see, to the University College London Hospital. Rayls and I always do things together!
We were both admitted and had tests. Turns out I had atrial fibrillation. My heart was out of kilter but was pretty much back to normal about an hour after I arrived at hospital. We were together the whole time but eventually Rayls was released and walked back to the hotel where Scott had arranged another nights stay – our luggage was still there.
I stayed over night in hospital. Finally after more than 12 hours on a bench bed I was moved to an isolation ward one floor up.
Friday 2 June 2023 – Another Setback
Signs were good that I would be discharged today. Good, but not good enough!
They gave me some blood thinners to take until I get home and see my cardiologist. Very special thinners to reduce the chance of stroke. Soon after the first dose my nose started to bleed. This was not just a minor bleed, this was a rush. They called an ear, throat and nose specialist in to cauterise the offending veins but too much blood so she stuck a plug up there which needs to stay in place for a day – another night in hospital. I could include a photo but you don’t want to see.
Rayls stayed resting at the hotel. In the afternoon she went out for supplies and then walked back to the hospital to drop off much needed power for my phone and computer. She walked back after a pleasant chat and got lost needing to catch a taxi to find her way back to the hotel.
It has been a depressing few days.
Saturday 3 June 2023 – Still in Hospital
Another day in hospital. At least they took out the nose plug.
Sunday 4 June 2023 – Discharged at Last
Today I was discharged and managed the short walk to the hotel. Poor Rayls is no better off than I am and we spent the day resting in the hotel.
Monday 5 June 2023 – On the Road at Last
This morning we finally checked out of the hotel, then took an Uber to Avis at Euston Station to pick up our car rental.
We headed north and ended up at Leeds East where we stayed at a nice hotel.
Neither of us are well and we rested from around 3:00pm.
Tuesday 6 June 2023 – Exploring York and Newcastle
Today we drove about 45 minutes to the town of York where we checked out the city with its Roman origins. There is an area known as the Shambles, where the beautiful old buildings have been restored and now house cheerful cafés, quirky boutiques and even a coin and stamp dealer and the smells are rather more pleasant with aromas from the chocolate, fudge and sweet shops, clothes and accessories and gift shops. Interesting place and a nice lunch at the Brunch Wagon.
In the afternoon we drove further north to Newcastle on Tyne.
Wednesday 7 June 2023 – Arriving in Scotland and Outlander Sites
We are both still not feeling well but we made it to Scotland.
We visited three sights from the TV series Outlander.
Midhope Castle which is used as a location in the TV series Outlander, being Lallybroch, home to Jamie. Blackness Castle features as Fort William, the garrison fortress under the command of Black Jack Randall and also Callendar House, where the kitchen provided the perfect setting for the Georgian working kitchen for Bellhurst Manor, the home of the Duke of Sandringham.
Thursday 8 June 2023 – Rest Day
Still no better, we spent the day resting in bed.
Friday 9 June 2023 – Edinburgh Exploration
Long day.
We caught the train into Edinburgh and walked through Princes Park to Scott Monument.
Then to the Royal Mile which we walked along to the Castle which we are coming back to tomorrow.
The Royal Mile runs through the heart of Edinburgh’s Old Town, connecting Edinburgh Castle, perched high on a base of volcanic rock, with the Palace of Holyroodhouse, resting in the shadow of Arthur’s Seat. The Mile is overlooked by impressive, towering tenements, between which cobbled closes and narrow stairways interlock to create a secret underground world.
It’s very impressive but tough going for us oldies. We also checked out Greyfriars Bobby commemorative statue. Bobby was a Skye Terrier who became known in 19th-century Edinburgh, Scotland, after reportedly spending fourteen years guarding his owner’s grave, until his own death on 14 January 1872. The story continues to be well known in Scotland, through several books and films.
For Outlander fans (and me) we saw Bakehouse Close where part of the show was filmed. Bakehouse Close is the site of Carfax Close, home to Alexander Malcolm’s print shop. It is here that we see Claire reunited with Jamie after years of separation.
Then it was onto the Palace of Holyroodhouse which was a very enjoyable visit. The Palace is the official residence in Scotland of King Charles.
After this we were about a K from the train station but I got on the Uber app and we relaxed back to the station. Then the train and back to the hotel. Walked further today then we have for a very long time.
Saturday 10 June 2023 – Edinburgh Castle and Onward to Perth
We caught the train back to Edinburgh where we bought tickets on the Hop On/Hop Off bus. Good way to see the sites. We got off at the Castle stop, bit early so had to kill time before we got into the castle.
Edinburgh Castle is one of the great castles of Britain. The oldest part of the castle dates from the Norman period. The Great Hall was built by James IV, and nearby are the Royal Apartments with pine panelling and gilded and painted plasterwork. The castle houses the Honours of Scotland, the Stone of Destiny and Mons Meg, a famous 15th-century cannon, plus several military museums.
After the Castle we continued on our hop on/hop off tour until we got back to the station. Then it was on the train, back to the car and we drove for about an hour and a half to Perth.
Sunday 11 June 2023 – Resting in Perth
After our day in Edinburgh on Saturday we drove about 110 K’s north to Perth. Lots of walking these past 2 days and we pretty well flaked out once we got to the Perth hotel.
Sadly on Sunday we needed another days rest and we relaxed in our hotel.
Monday 12 June 2023 – Castles and History
We checked out of our hotel and headed to Scone Palace. Scone Palace was the crowning place of Scottish kings where Macbeth, Robert the Bruce and Charles II were once crowned. Lots of history here and very interesting place to visit.
We followed Scone with a trip into Perth City, lovely city.
Mid afternoon we headed west to Doune Castle. This medieval stronghold was built in the late 14th century. It’s largely empty, allowing you to use your imagination as you roam its ancient rooms and halls, picturing what life was like 600 years ago. Most importantly, Doune Castle feels familiar because it’s one of the most famous filming locations in Scotland. It’s been featured in Ivanhoe (both Liz Taylor’s 1952 film and the 1996 BBC adaptation), Monty Python & the Holy Grail, Game of Thrones, and Outlander.
Then onto Stirling Castle, we drove right up to it but didn’t go in. Just too many steps and we just weren’t up top it.
Further south and we by passed Glasgow before a quick stop in Lockerbie where we checked out the Sherwood Crescent Memorial Garden. A lawned garden with shrubs and trees now occupies the site where numbers 13 to 16 Sherwood Crescent once stood. The homes were destroyed (together with several other local houses) on Wednesday, 21 December 1988 when a large section of a Boeing 747–121 airliner crashed to earth here. The plane was destroyed by an explosive device. The explosion and crash killed all 243 passengers and 16 crew members in the plane and a further 11 people on the ground.
We ended up in Greta Green just shy of the England border.
Tuesday 13 June 2023 – Lake District – Beatrix Potter Day
A short drive back into England and into the beautiful Lake District. The region is stunning with narrow winding roads, stone fences, and incredible scenery at every turn.
We visited Hill Top, the charming house that Beatrix Potter bought in 1905 with the royalties from her first few books. Though she lived in London, she would come to Hill Top as often as she could—never for more than a few days at a time—but enough to sketch and write, inspired by the house, garden, animals, and countryside. This was a big bucket list moment for Rayls, and it didn’t disappoint.
We didn’t last long today—our energy was still low—so we checked into our hotel fairly early for a much-needed rest.
Wednesday 14 June 2023 – Lakes District Exploration
Another day in the Lakes District. Checking out the scenery with a stop in Windermere to check out the World of Beatrix Potter attraction and then to Derwent Pencil Museum. Located in Keswick, the home of the first pencil, visitors enter this museum through a replica graphite mine which would have served as the source of the pencil industry over three centuries ago. A journey of graphite and pencil discovery from its humble beginnings as a cottage industry to modern day production.
Then onto Penrith which seems very busy traffic wise. Rayls got to go to her first quilt shop for this trip.
Back to the hotel for a much needed rest.
Thursday 15 June 2023 – Lakes District to Birmingham via Wrexham
A big drive today—about 300 kilometres—as we left the scenic Lakes District and made our way to Birmingham.
We took a scenic detour through Wales to visit a special spot: The Racecourse Ground in Wrexham, the historic home of Wrexham A.F.C. The club, famously rejuvenated under the ownership of Hollywood actors Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney, is now the subject of a popular docuseries that chronicles the revitalisation of both the team and the local community.
We enjoyed a great lunch in Wrexham and had a pleasant stroll around the stadium grounds, including a visit to the official Wrexham club shop—a real highlight.
Back on the road, we returned to England and arrived at our Airbnb in Birmingham around 3:00pm, ready to rest and recharge.
Friday 16 June 2023 – Day at Edgbaston – First Ashes Test
Today was one of the big highlights of our trip—attending Day 1 of the First Ashes Test between Australia and England at Edgbaston Cricket Ground. This has been on both of our bucket lists for a long time, and it truly felt special to finally be there, soaking in the atmosphere of one of cricket’s most iconic venues.
We arrived at the ground in good time and were immediately struck by the buzz and energy of the crowd. The stadium was a sea of English fans, and as Aussies, we definitely felt like the minority—something we’re not used to when watching cricket back home. The locals were loud, enthusiastic, and relentless with their chants and singing, particularly in the Hollies Stand, which lived up to its rowdy reputation. It made for an intense but entertaining experience.
As for the cricket itself, it was an intriguing day’s play. Australia didn’t look quite at their best—some loose bowling early and a few missed opportunities in the field—but they fought hard and managed to claw back some control as the day wore on. By stumps, the match was finely poised, perhaps with a slight edge to England, but it’s still anyone’s game. We’re really looking forward to seeing how Day 2 unfolds.
It was a hot day—not unbearable, but warmer than we expected for the UK. Thankfully, our seats offered a bit of shade and a good view of the action. While we both loved being there, we agreed that the atmosphere, while electric, could be a bit over the top. Some of the English fans were pretty brutal with their jeering and commentary, and it made us realise how different the cricket culture is here compared to Australia. It’s something we’re glad we experienced—but not necessarily something we’d rush to repeat.
After the final ball, we made the short walk back to our Airbnb, just eight minutes away. That convenience was a real blessing after such a long and exhausting day. We were too tired to head out for dinner, so we opted for a low-key night in with some delivered pizza and a quiet wind-down. All in all, a big day—memorable, a little overwhelming, but definitely one for the books.
Saturday 17 June 2023 – Return to London – Chelsea Base Camp
Today was a travel day as we made our way back to London—about 300 kilometres on the road, bringing the total distance driven during our UK leg to 1212 miles (roughly 1950 km). It’s been a big drive overall, and the car held up well through the narrow lanes of the Lakes District, motorways, and all the stops in between.
We dropped the rental car near Euston Station and then grabbed an Uber to our hotel in Chelsea. The roads were absolutely packed—turns out the King had some sort of event on today, which probably added to the chaos.
Scott really came through with the accommodation this time. We’re staying at a beautiful 4-star hotel located right at the Chelsea Football Club. It’s a very stylish and modern place—though we joked that the only downside is being surrounded by Chelsea supporters! We arrived right on 1:00pm and, as a bonus, caught part of the Royal flyover from our hotel window. Watching the planes pass overhead was an unexpected treat and gave the afternoon a bit of that unmistakable London pomp and ceremony.
After checking in, the rest of the day was a write-off. We were absolutely knackered after all the travel, walking, and sightseeing of the past few days. We sprawled out in the room, flicked on the TV, and found a special airing of a 60s music show—non-stop music clips from what we both agree is the best decade of all time. A perfect way to unwind.
Tomorrow promises to be a big one. We’re off to Windsor Castle in the morning, and in the evening, we’ve got something we’ve been looking forward to for a long time—Abba Voyage at the Abba Arena. Should be a memorable day.
Sunday 18 June 2023 – A Royal Morning and a Digital Disco Night
Today was filled with royalty, train rides, and a spectacular trip down memory lane—one of those magical travel days we’ll remember for a long time.
We began the day with a somewhat complex but well-connected train journey from Fulham Broadway to Windsor. First, we took the Tube to Paddington Station, followed by a Great Western Railway train to Slough, and finally a short hop on another train to Windsor & Eton Riverside. The whole trip took about an hour, and despite the transfers, it was smooth and enjoyable.
Windsor Castle was just a short walk from the station. As we approached, we noticed the Royal Standard flying above the Round Tower, which meant King Charles III was in residence. That little detail added a special touch to our visit.
The castle itself was everything we expected and more. Rayls especially loved Queen Mary’s Doll House—a meticulously detailed miniature palace with working lights, running water, and exquisite furnishings. I was struck by the sheer weight of history in the place—centuries of monarchs, ceremonies, and traditions echo through the rooms and walls. There were a lot of stairs, which made it tough going at times, but we managed.
An unexpected bonus was the location’s proximity to Heathrow Airport. As aviation enthusiasts, we couldn’t help but be entertained by the steady stream of huge international airliners flying directly overhead on final approach. It was like a bonus air show while exploring royal history.
After touring the castle, we retraced our steps—train from Windsor to Slough, Slough to Paddington, and back to Fulham Broadway. We arrived at the hotel mid-afternoon and rested up in preparation for the big evening ahead.
Later, we set off for the ABBA Voyage show at the custom-built ABBA Arena in east London. Unfortunately, parts of the District Line were shut down due to a signal fault, which made our trip out there more complicated than expected. After a bit of guesswork, detours, and help from fellow travellers, we managed to arrive on time—more by good luck than good planning. A light drizzle added to the challenge, but we were too excited to care.
The show was incredible.
ABBA Voyage is a virtual concert experience that blends live music with digital technology in a way that’s truly remarkable. The performers on stage were digital avatars of ABBA as they appeared in 1979, moving and performing in sync with the original vocals and a live backing band. The quality of the animation and stage effects was so high that you quickly forgot you weren’t watching real people. The sound, lighting, and atmosphere were electric, and the entire audience was captivated from the very first song.
It was like being transported back in time to a 1970s ABBA concert, only with 21st-century production values. We sang along, tapped our feet, and smiled the whole way through.
The trip back to the hotel was thankfully much easier than the trip there, with no hiccups along the way.
All in all, it was a day of contrasts—historic castles and royal traditions in the morning, and cutting-edge digital entertainment in the evening. A perfect example of why we travel.
Monday 19 June 2023 – A Birthday Abroad, Arsenal Adventures, and Groundhog Day
Today marked a personal milestone—my first time celebrating a birthday overseas. It brought back fond memories of 1980 when we celebrated Rayls’ birthday in London. That year, we went to the London Palladium to see The King and I with Yul Brynner himself performing on stage. That night left a lasting impression. No Yul Brynner this time around, but we kept the theatre tradition alive with tickets to see Groundhog Day: The Musical at the Old Vic.
But first, we took on the London Underground once more, this time heading to the Emirates Stadium, home of Arsenal Football Club. The Tube journey was a bit of a mission—we’re getting better at it, but it’s still a maze for the uninitiated. Eventually, we surfaced near the stadium and made a stop for lunch at the Little Wonder Café, located directly across the road. It’s a humble spot with a bit of family history: Scott and Shannon ate there when they stayed in the area, so of course, we had to do the same.
The Emirates Stadium itself is enormous and impressive, both architecturally and atmospherically. We took the full tour, explored the museum, and—naturally—spent a bit of time (and money) in the club shop. Scott has been an Arsenal supporter for years, and while Rayls and I might not be diehard fans, we’ve definitely come to appreciate the club thanks to him. It turned out to be a surprisingly enjoyable and memorable afternoon.
After the stadium, it was back on the Tube for the journey home—and then time for our regular mid-afternoon recovery session. A quick rest and recharge, and then we were off again by 6:00 p.m., braving the Tube once more to get to the Old Vic Theatre.
Groundhog Day: The Musical was well done—clever staging, strong performances, and lots of energy. Knowing the movie inside and out made it fun to see how they adapted it for the stage. The time-loop transitions were particularly inventive, and even though the story is familiar, it still managed to surprise and entertain.
After the show, we made a half-hearted attempt to catch a bus back to the hotel, but after failing to figure out where it actually departed from, we gave up and headed back underground. Thankfully, the Tube wasn’t as chaotic on the return journey, and we made it back without incident.
A full day of culture, sport, family tradition, and birthday cheer. Not quite the quiet birthday of years past—but a truly memorable one.
Tuesday 20 June 2023 – A Quiet End to an Unforgettable Journey
Our last full day, nd it was a quiet one—we simply didn’t have the energy left to do anything too adventurous. Rayls is still dealing with her lingering Covid cough, and we both find ourselves breathless on the stairs, which are everywhere in the Underground. The past few weeks have caught up with us, and we were more than happy to take it slow.
We spent a few hours strolling up and down Oxford Street, browsing through Marks & Spencer, Liberty of London, and Selfridges. Rayls found a few things she was happy with and enjoyed herself, which made it well worth the effort. It was classic London shopping—bustling streets, beautiful displays, and that unmistakable city buzz.
By 3:00 p.m., we were back at the hotel for our now-customary afternoon rest. No shame in that—we’ve walked more this trip than we have in a long time.
We did make an effort to go out for dinner, but being in Chelsea, everything nearby was a bit too high-end for our tastes (and energy levels), so we opted for the simplicity of room service back at the hotel. A quiet end to a full and rewarding trip.
On a final note, what a great win by Australia at Edgbaston! So special to have been there for Day One and to see it all unfold in person. A fantastic end to an unforgettable journey.
Wednesday 21 June 2023 – Flying Home – Farewell to the UK, Back to Perth
We were scheduled to fly out of Heathrow at 11:25am on flight SQ317.
Rayls had another rough night with her Covid cough. I wish there was more I could do, but all I could offer was a 2:00am cup of tea. She did the packing in the morning and we were pretty much ready to go. We planned to leave around 7:30am – a bit early, but with our luggage and the often-crowded Tube, we thought it best to be cautious.
Getting a train proved difficult. We had to let four full trains pass before finally squeezing aboard one for the six-stop ride to Paddington, where we caught the Heathrow Express.
Check-in and security went as smoothly as possible, but the crew for our flight arrived late, so we took off about 45 minutes behind schedule. It was a long haul. The transfer in Singapore went fine, as did the final leg into Perth. We were incredibly relieved to have both flights behind us.
The best part? Both our sons met us at the airport. It was so good to see them again. Ryan drove us home. It’s colder here than in the UK, but honestly, it’s so nice to be back.
Trip Wrap-Up: Thumbs Up, Not Sure, and Thumbs Down
Thumbs Up
- Paramedics (Holly and Katie)
The paramedics who attended to me before my hospital admission were outstanding. They went above and beyond—dragging me up the stairs one step at a time and also helping Rayls, who was just as unwell. They ensured we were both admitted and even returned later to check on us. Holly and Katie, thank you sincerely. - University College London Hospital
We received excellent care. Every staff member we encountered was professional, kind, and attentive. We couldn’t have asked for better treatment—and all provided free of charge. Truly impressive. - Avis Rent a Car
Avis were understanding about our delay and held the car for us. The vehicle itself was reliable, and both pickup and return were smooth and efficient. - UK Roads and Drivers
The road system in the UK is generally very good, albeit with a lot of roundabouts. Road markings could be clearer, but overall it was a positive driving experience. I particularly appreciated how UK drivers use the fast lane properly—moving across, overtaking, then merging back. In Australia, it’s common for drivers to linger in the fast lane for kilometres on end. - Edgbaston Cricket Ground
The staff were friendly and helpful. Unlike the WACA or Perth Stadium, the PA system was clear and easy to understand. Food options were decent, and £6 for unlimited soft drinks was great value.
Not Sure
- Singapore Airlines
Overall, the experience was just average. The food didn’t appeal to us, though that may come down to personal taste—we prefer simpler meals over gourmet offerings. Service was fine, but nothing outstanding. - Singapore Airport (Return Trip)
Disappointed by the lack of access to water. We weren’t able to bring drinks through security for our Perth-bound flight, and after passing through security there were no outlets to purchase water. It was at least 30 minutes after takeoff before we were offered a small drink. Not ideal after a long wait.
Thumbs Down
- The London Tube
As elderly, unwell tourists unfamiliar with the system, the Underground was difficult. The sheer number of stairs and lack of clear signage made navigating a challenge. On our final days, we used the District Line, where different services go to different destinations, which confused us. On our trip to the Emirates Stadium, the Circle Line train was uncomfortably crowded and overheated, with what felt like a heating system on full blast. Many carriages were packed to unreasonable levels. I’m sure it’s a great system if you’re used to it—but for us, it was overwhelming. - English Supporters at Edgbaston
I found the crowd at Edgbaston far too parochial. I’m used to polite applause for good play, regardless of the team. The Barmy Army, often celebrated in the media, were at their worst here. Their behaviour made the experience uncomfortable and lacked the sporting respect I value.
That’s it for another trip. Thanks for following along.
— Gary
