USA 2006
This trip saw us driving our Alamo rental car across the country—and back again. Over 8,000 miles traveled, with 95% of the journey thoroughly enjoyed. The only real lowlight was battling peak-hour gridlock in New York City—not much fun at all!
Early Days
Departure – 25 March 2006
I and Rayls ready to depart from Perth Airport.
Our 2006 USA adventure began at Perth’s Domestic Airport with Qantas Flight 518 (Airbus 330) departing at 11:27pm on Saturday, 25th March. After a 4-hour and 36-minute flight, we landed in Sydney at 6:03am.
With a comfortable stopover ahead, we took the train from the Domestic Terminal to Circular Quay and enjoyed a peaceful early morning stroll around the iconic Sydney Opera House and harbor—quiet, calm, and full of promise for the journey ahead.
Returning to the International Terminal, we boarded our Qantas flight at 12:30pm, taking off at 1:05pm. The long flight was bumpy at times, with the pilot climbing from 35,000 to 38,000 feet to avoid turbulence. I even spotted the island of Noumea during the flight.
We passed just south of Honolulu, Hawaii, and at 6:24am local time, began our descent into LAX, landing at 6:54am.
Entering the USA was hassle-free. We caught the shuttle to Alamo Car Rental and picked up our vehicle—a Chevy Trailblazer SUV. Although brand new when rented, by the end of our seven-week trip, it had certainly been well used.
Though Los Angeles is just a mile from the Pacific Ocean, we made a point to drive to the coast, marking the true start of our cross-country adventure.
After stocking up on essentials, we headed about 130 miles to Barstow. It was a tiring drive, and I even nodded off briefly while changing lanes—a scary moment we were lucky to survive.
Barstow is a small town between LA and Las Vegas—not especially scenic, but it has a pull on us. After checking in, a much-needed shower, and dinner at Denny’s (I was in heaven with the food and endless refills), we called it a night. Day one was complete.
Day Two – Monday 27 March 2006
We departed early, setting out on the I-40, a highway we would become very familiar with over the coming week. The I-40 runs from Barstow across the country to South Carolina.
Our first stop was Needles, California—home to Snoopy’s brother Spike, though we didn’t spot him this time.
Spurred by a sign for London Bridge, we took a detour that proved frustrating due to poor signage and ended up wasting an hour before getting back on I-40 and continuing to Williams, Arizona.
From Williams, we turned off and traveled the 60 miles to the Grand Canyon. The Canyon’s vast size and vivid colors are truly a natural marvel. The weather was cool, with occasional wisps of snow, and we enjoyed a pleasant stroll along the canyon’s edge.
After spending a couple of hours taking in the Canyon, we took a detour via Route 180 to Flagstaff. This was Rayls’ first stint behind the wheel, navigating a narrow, winding road with snow and roadworks—it was fun and adventurous.
We arrived in Flagstaff just as dusk was falling. After swapping drivers, I navigated us to the Days Inn for the night.
Dinner was at Denny’s once again—life in the USA was certainly grand!
It was a good day, despite jet lag. We covered around 400 miles, saw one of nature’s wonders, and still had so much more to look forward to.
Taking It Easy
Day Three – Tuesday 28 March 2006
We left our hotel around 8am and soon found ourselves crawling through heavy traffic before finally hitting the open road on the I-40 heading east. About 30 minutes in, I suddenly realized I had left the camera battery charger back at the hotel! So, we turned around and made our way back to Flagstaff—nice to see the town again, even if it was unplanned.
Back on the I-40 by 9am, we continued the 58 miles to Winslow, Arizona, where I was keen to “stand on a corner” just like in the Eagles’ classic 1970s hit Take It Easy.
Finding the corner was easy—it’s quite a tourist attraction, with souvenir shops on two of the corners dedicated solely to “Standin’ On A Corner” memorabilia. I was surprised we weren’t the only ones there for the same reason; there were at least 15 others, mostly Baby Boomers, all soaking up this little piece of music history.
One corner features a mural depicting the girl in the flatbed Ford, painted on a large building wall that had partially burned down a few years ago. The wall is propped up with timber beams and looks ready to collapse, with a safety fence keeping visitors at a respectful distance.
Winslow itself feels like a town past its prime. Once a significant stop on the iconic Route 66, it now seems to have been left behind by the interstate and the march of time. It was a nice place to linger for an hour or so, but we were happy to continue our journey.
Crossing into New Mexico on the I-40, the vastness of what lay ahead started to sink in. The landscape was stark and barren, and we began to have second thoughts about the enormity of the trip. To pass the time, we started counting Walmart trucks—those ubiquitous 53-foot rigs that dominate American highways.
Over a 5-mile stretch, we counted 31 trucks coming the opposite way, compared to just 21 cars. The sparse population was striking—if the USA has 300 million people, where are they all? I joked that they must be packed in the backs of all those trucks.
Thanks to the ever-changing scenery, some great tunes on the iPod, and the constant parade of Walmart trucks, our doubts eased.
We spent the night in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Besides being one of the hardest names to spell, Albuquerque is a large city—probably about the size of Perth, with over a million people. The I-40 cuts right through the city, which meant a bit of traffic congestion, but we enjoyed a comfortable hotel and a pleasant dinner (no Denny’s tonight).
We covered 365 miles today—including a bit of backtracking.
Day Four – Wednesday 29th March 2006 – Texas
We started the day on the I-40 in Albuquerque and, after a while, drifted into Texas. Texans like to boast about how big their state is, but it took us only about three hours to drive across what they call the Panhandle. Not sure why—it doesn’t really look like a panhandle to us! For comparison, no one could drive across Western Australia in three hours. We’re always happy to remind anyone who’ll listen that Western Australia is four and a half times bigger than Texas.
We stopped in Amarillo for a while and checked out a fascinating stretch of the old Route 66. Amarillo also has a peculiar roadside attraction—a guy buried ten Cadillacs nose-first into the ground. Not sure why, but it looked pretty weird from the interstate.
After some more miles, we crossed into Oklahoma and eventually stopped at Elk City, about 100 miles short of Oklahoma City.
So far, the countryside has been very diverse—we’ve seen some stunning scenery and some downright boring stretches too, but we’re enjoying the trip all the same.
Besides all the trucks, we’ve also seen a lot of RVs—those caravan-style homes on wheels. Many tow smaller cars behind them so when they reach their destination, they have something easier to drive than the big RV. Today we saw one RV towing a pickup truck that had a four-wheel motorcycle on its back. Some of these RVs are pretty long!
This part of the US feels different from the places we’ve seen on previous trips. It seems poorer, and the people here are more “American” American—the classic “down south” accents we Aussies think of when we imagine Americans. Everyone’s very friendly and helpful, and they love hearing our Aussie accents.
Today we covered a solid 430 miles—tough going but well worth it.
Day Five – Thursday 30th March 2006 – Oklahoma
We started the day with some shopping in Elk City and took a little time to explore before getting back on the I-40, heading towards Oklahoma City.
Using our trusty GPS, we found the site of the Oklahoma City bombing from April 19, 1995.
Today, the site is home to a deeply moving memorial dedicated to the 168 lives lost. It’s thoughtfully designed, featuring a reflecting pool framed by two large “gates”—one inscribed with the time 9:01, the other 9:03—with the pool between representing the moment of the blast.
At the southern end of the memorial is a field filled with symbolic bronze and stone chairs—one for each person who perished—arranged according to the floor they were on in the building. The chairs represent empty seats at the victims’ family dinner tables, with the children’s chairs noticeably smaller.
Opposite this is the “Survivor Tree,” a resilient elm that was part of the original landscaping and somehow survived the blast and ensuing fires.
The memorial preserves part of the original building’s foundation, allowing visitors to grasp the scale of the devastation. Along the western edge, a section of the chain-link fence still stands, once covered with over 800,000 personal items—notes, toys, mementos—left by mourners. These are carefully collected by the Oklahoma City Memorial Foundation and replaced with new tributes, a continuous testament to remembrance.
Reading the heartfelt messages and seeing the teddy bears and keepsakes left behind was truly heart-wrenching.
Day Six – Friday 31st March 2006 – St. Louis
We made it through the night in Joplin without being blown away by a tornado, so that was a relief!
After a quick look around Joplin, we continued on I-44 to a tiny town called Stotts City. With a population of just 250, we’re still wondering where the “city” part of the name comes from. It felt like stepping into Mayberry from the Andy Griffith Show—a classic small-town vibe.
Stotts City boasts a fantastic Teddy Bear shop, where Rayls happily spent a good hour browsing.
The rest of the day involved a few holdups—mostly roadworks—as we drove through Springfield and on to St. Louis, where we were excited to meet up with Eileen and Phil.
Our connection with Eileen and Phil is an interesting story. After our 2001 trip, I took a job as a tourist bus driver, where I often met international students at the airport and helped with their accommodation. Most students were from Asia or Africa, and Americans were rare.
The first American student I met was a young lady named Nichole. I helped her navigate some accommodation issues, happy to repay the kindness Americans had shown me during my visits. We exchanged emails, and soon Rayls and I spent a day showing Nichole around the city. Over the following months, we met a few more times until Nichole eventually returned home to the USA.
From that friendship came an invitation to meet Nichole’s parents in the States. Though I was a bit wary, the chance to visit Dallas and St. Louis was too good to pass up.
So here we were, heading into St. Louis, eager to meet Eileen and Phil.
First impressions of outer St. Louis were the busy traffic and sprawling roads—it’s clearly a big city! Fortunately, Eileen and Phil live about 20 miles north in West Alton, a peaceful rural setting. They’re wonderful people, and we immediately felt at home with them.
We enjoyed a couple of lovely days at their beautiful home, which is actually a small farm with a charming barn. Listening to their stories about farm life was fascinating—especially how in 1993 they nearly lost everything in devastating floods.
That afternoon we visited the confluence of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers—a remarkable and serene spot.
Crossing the bridge over the Mississippi took us into Illinois, where we stopped in Alton. There we visited a small park dedicated to Robert Pershing Wadlow, the world’s tallest man, who stood an astonishing 8’ 11” tall at his death. The life-size bronze statue is surreal to stand beside, and the replica chair beside it adds to the fascinating experience.
We returned to Eileen and Phil’s for a pleasant evening, grateful for their hospitality.
Day Seven – Saturday 1st April 2006 – St. Louis
Eileen and Phil took us into St. Louis for the day. With my long-standing interest in the Titanic, I was thrilled to find a Titanic Exhibition happening in town. We all went together, and it was a major highlight. Sadly, no photos were allowed, but the replica staircase was impressive, and being able to touch a piece of the Titanic itself was a memorable moment.
Afterward, we explored the heart of the city and the iconic St. Louis Arch. The arch stands both 630 feet (192 meters) tall and wide—truly a gateway to the West and a fascinating structure to behold.
Across the road from the Arch flows the mighty Mississippi River, with Illinois on the opposite bank. Paddle boats cruised the river while the constant sound of jazz floated through the air, creating a perfect atmosphere.
Nearby, a park was hosting a lively fair. We enjoyed walking among the crowd, browsing the stalls, and sampling the food.
Just up the road, we visited the Lewis and Clark Museum. Their expedition was the first overland journey to the Pacific coast and back—an important chapter in American history.
It was a wonderful, relaxed day, and as we spent our last night with Eileen and Phil, we felt Memphis calling us next.
Day Eight – Sunday 2nd April 2006 – Memphis
We left Eileen and Phil early, heading south toward Memphis. Phil gave us some directions to avoid the worst traffic, and soon enough we were cruising down I-55.
Just past the halfway mark, we crossed into Arkansas—another state ticked off our list.
Then we reached our old friend I-40 at West Memphis, turned east, crossed the mighty Mississippi River, and entered Memphis, Tennessee.
Just over the river was a Visitor’s Centre, so we stopped there first before finding our hotel, which took a bit of searching, but we made it.
Tired from the day’s travel, we had an early dinner at Cracker Barrel—a comforting choice—and settled in for some TV, eager to catch our favorite show, The West Wing, which was nearing its dramatic finale.
But then the weather turned sour. We’d never seen such an ominous black sky. The local news was dominated by tornado warnings. The announcer kept naming counties, but we had no idea which one we were in.
From around 7 pm until after midnight, the tornado warnings persisted—no sign of The West Wing.
Around 9 pm, a siren wailed nearby. It sounded serious, but oddly, nobody else seemed too concerned. The siren blared on for about an hour while the weather warnings continued.
Rayls took the warnings seriously, moving items to the bathroom, while I, fascinated, stood by the window watching the incredible lightning display—definitely not recommended during tornado season!
Thankfully, the tornadoes missed Memphis, but just 25 miles away, tragedy struck, with reports of 30 fatalities.
A sobering new experience for us—no West Wing that night.
Day Nine – Monday 3rd April 2006
Today was calm and clear, a stark contrast to last night’s stormy skies.
We started early, ready when the gates to Graceland opened. The visit begins across the road, where you pay and wait for buses that shuttle visitors to Elvis’s mansion in staggered groups to avoid overcrowding.
We were on the third bus. Graceland itself, while neat, wasn’t the grand spectacle we had imagined. The interior is very much a product of the ’60s—bold, flashy, and somewhat overwhelming. Not exactly our style, but definitely interesting to see.
You wear headphones with a guided tour narrating the story as you move through the rooms.
Outside, we visited Elvis’s gravesite before returning to the bus and heading back to the visitor area, where we checked out a couple of Elvis’s private planes.
After a bit of souvenir shopping, we drove down Elvis Presley Boulevard and into downtown Memphis.
We passed the legendary Sun Studios—the birthplace of rock ’n’ roll—and made our way to Beale Street. This historic street runs from the Mississippi River about 1.8 miles into the city and is a cornerstone of African-American history and the blues.
We wandered along Beale Street before visiting the Gibson Guitar factory, where we picked up some souvenirs for our son, Ryan.
Next was the Lorraine Motel, now the National Civil Rights Museum—the site where Martin Luther King Jr. was assassinated in 1968.
Though we had planned to spend the night in Memphis, it was only mid-afternoon, so we hit the I-40 eastbound for Nashville, about 210 miles away.
Country music isn’t really our thing, but we set the GPS for the Grand Ole Opry. Upon arrival, we realized the venue was much newer than we expected—still impressive nonetheless.
Nashville didn’t hold much appeal for us city folks, so after about an hour, we decided to push on. Silly, maybe, but we were young and adventurous.
By dusk, we were navigating a rather tricky drive into Cookeville, where we settled for the night.
grateful and sad at the same time. We hope to meet again someday.
Amish Country – Day Ten – Tuesday 4th April 2006
We started the day in Cookeville, Tennessee. The girl at the Days Inn seemed puzzled by our presence—“Why would you come here?” she asked.
It wasn’t a bad place at all, and the hotel was nice enough for a night’s rest. We took a quick stroll around town before hitting the road again.
After about 30 miles past Knoxville, we left I-40 and headed north on I-81.
We enjoyed some beautiful scenery along I-81. I got a little edgy here—it was the closest we came to our good friends Jim and Bette in South Carolina. Due to a few mix-ups, we wouldn’t get to meet on this trip, which was frustrating knowing they were just about 200 miles away yet so far.
Crossing into Virginia at Bristol, we soaked up more scenic views and took it easy for the day before stopping in Staunton. Unfortunately, the Guest House Inn there was the worst hotel we’d stayed in so far—noisy and very basic.
We were now deep in the Shenandoah Valley, a truly beautiful and scenic area.
Day Eleven – Wednesday 5th April 2006
We continued our journey through the Shenandoah National Park region. Time was tight on this trip, but this area definitely warrants a longer visit in the future.
Continuing north on I-81, we crossed into Pennsylvania, bypassing historic sites like Gettysburg—which holds little interest for us—and Hershey, because, well… we’re not fans of chocolate!
We left I-81 at Harrisburg and took Highway 283 to Lancaster, where we spent the night at a Holiday Inn. There was a Denny’s just across the road, but arriving at 5:30pm, we found the staff were in a meeting and couldn’t serve us.
We managed a quick look around Lancaster before calling it a night.
A relatively slow day—just 290 miles covered.
Day Twelve – Thursday 6th April 2006
This turned out to be a long but very rewarding day—mainly for Rayls, though I had a special moment too.
We left the hotel and headed into Amish Country, focusing on the quilt and craft stores Rayls loves so much. Along the way, we crossed some covered bridges reminiscent of those in The Bridges of Madison County.
The Amish lifestyle was evident everywhere—plain clothes hanging on clotheslines, horse-drawn buggies, and a general step back in time.
Our first stop was in a charming little town called Bird-in-Hand. Rayls happily spent a couple of hours exploring the stores while I amused myself watching the horses and buggies mingling with the large trucks along the main road. The highlight was spotting an Amish teenager, dressed head-to-toe in traditional Amish clothing, rollerblading down the road—quite the sight!
Next, we moved on to Intercourse, where more quilt shops beckoned Rayls while I took in the quaint scenery. The traffic here was amusing—horse and buggies patiently waiting alongside cars and trucks for green lights.
By mid-afternoon, we left the Amish area and drove about 45 miles to Frazer in Chester County, where we visited the gravesite of one of our favorite singers, Jim Croce, at the Haym Saloman Memorial Park.
Around 4pm, we headed north on a 125-mile drive to Scranton, Pennsylvania. The drive was a bit tough as it got dark before we arrived.
We stayed at a nice Days Inn, had dinner at Friendly’s, and managed some much-needed laundry at a laundromat.
A long day, but a truly great one!
Niagara Falls – Scranton, PA – Day Thirteen – Friday 7th April 2006
We started the day in Scranton, Pennsylvania. It was a pretty ordinary day as we made our way roughly 300 miles to Buffalo, New York. We had a quick look around Scranton, a town somewhat famous thanks to Harry Chapin’s classic 30,000 Pounds of Bananas. I even bought a banana while we were there, just for authenticity!
The drive to Buffalo was fairly uneventful. We skirted around Binghamton, which reminded me of Leadbottom from McHale’s Navy. Then we followed Route 17, which changed names near Rochester before joining the I-90 west to Buffalo. Unfortunately, it rained all the way.
We stayed at a nice hotel, the Lord Amherst, had dinner at Denny’s, and called it an early night. Later that night, I did some late-night surfing on the internet and was saddened to learn that Gene Pitney had passed away. We’d played a lot of his music as we drove past Tulsa, Oklahoma, earlier in the trip.
Niagara Falls – Day Fourteen – Friday 7th April 2006
We got a really early start this morning, driving about 25 miles across the border into Canada to visit Niagara Falls. We’d heard the Canadian side was more scenic—and while the US view might be just as stunning, it was nice to step into Canada for a few hours.
Being there around 8:30 am gave us a big advantage and one disadvantage. The good news: hardly anyone was there—we practically had the place to ourselves. The bad news: it was absolutely freezing. A clear day but with a biting breeze and all the mist from the falls, we were the coldest we’ve ever been!
We spent around five hours at the falls, and it truly is sensational—beautiful beyond words. Photos and videos just don’t do it justice. Sadly, the famous Maid of the Mist ferry wasn’t operating yet—it’s a seasonal thing. But we still had a fantastic time and were sad to leave.
Crossing back into the US, our camera caught the attention of a customs officer. We had to park and let another officer check every photo on the camera to ensure we hadn’t snapped anything sensitive around the border. A bit nerve-wracking, but we were only delayed about 15 minutes.
Back on the road, we ended up in a small town called Chile (quite fitting given the cold morning!). We only ended up there because our GPS was set to take us to a Walmart, but instead, we found ourselves in a quiet neighborhood with no Walmart in sight.
We finished the day in Syracuse, which seems like a nice town. Notably, it has a roundabout near our hotel—the first we’ve seen on this trip, and it was a bit intimidating!
New England – Day Fifteen – Sunday 9th April 2006
We started the day in Syracuse, which I believe locals refer to as “Upstate New York.” After a good, healthy breakfast, we left the nearby Dunkin’ Donuts and hit the road.
Driving through Albany, we soon left New York State behind and entered Massachusetts. By 2 pm, we arrived in Worcester and had a quick look around before checking into our hotel.
For the last four nights, the closest restaurant to our hotels has been Denny’s, so it was Denny’s once again for dinner last night. Back at the hotel, we stayed up to watch our favourite show, The West Wing, which was just as good as ever.
A quiet, easy day.
Day Sixteen – Monday 10th April 2006
Providence, Rhode Island
Today we planned to complete our trip across the country by visiting Cape Cod and seeing the Atlantic Ocean. I scored a Marriott hotel through Priceline last night—a $219-a-night room for just $45! The catch? It’s downtown Providence, Rhode Island, so we braced ourselves for some tricky driving and put the GPS to good use.
We’re definitely getting used to life here now. We remember to flick the light switch up to turn on the lights, though showers remain a mystery—every hotel has a different system! I am slowly learning to drive on the “wrong” side of the road; yesterday I scared someone half to death—and myself too.
Cape Cod was beautiful, peaceful in the off-season. The JFK Museum was unfortunately closed, but Hyannisport, where JFK spent a lot of time, was fascinating. I have a keen interest in all things JFK, so this was a highlight for me.
After about three hours exploring Cape Cod and Hyannis, we headed towards Providence.
Providence was our first real experience of being a bit out of our depth. The Marriott was a step above our usual standards, and we felt a little awkward navigating it. Searching for dinner, we ended up at a Subway and furtively smuggled our food back into the room!
The room’s normal rate was over $200+ a night, but we were expected to pay extra for wireless internet (which had been free at cheaper hotels) and a dollar for a local phone call.
Still, it was an okay night after a pleasant day exploring Cape Cod and Providence.
Day Seventeen – Tuesday 11th April 2006
We started out from Providence and almost made it back to New York City before detouring to the Kensico Cemetery in Valhalla. Here we paid our respects to one of Raylene’s favourite entertainers, Danny Kaye. His ashes, along with his wife Sylvia’s, are placed beside a bench with an embossed metal plaque featuring items relating to him.
We also paid respects to other famous figures laid to rest there, including Tommy Dorsey, Lou Gehrig, and David Sarnoff. It was a peaceful hour.
Next, we made our way to West Point Military Academy. Jim and Bette had taken us here on our 2001 trip. We wanted to revisit Inspiration Point on the grounds and take another photo like last time. Unfortunately, tighter security now meant we couldn’t drive onto the grounds, so no photo this time.
From there, the drive to North Bergen, New Jersey, was stressful. I often wished Jim and Bette were driving again like last time! We finally arrived safely at our Super 8 hotel. It’s more our style than some of the posher places, but the area isn’t great.
I chose this hotel partly because of the price but also because it offers a shuttle bus into New York City every 5 to 10 minutes. The ride is 15 to 20 minutes, and we caught glimpses of the NYC skyline on the way in. It’s changed a lot since our last visit in July 2001.
By 4pm, we were back at the hotel and went for a walk to find dinner. There was an IHOP just across the road—less than 50 yards/metres away—but crossing the road meant a long detour to the traffic lights.
All in all, we’re doing well despite some stressful moments navigating around. The GPS remains invaluable, and here’s hoping it keeps up the good work tomorrow!
New York – Day Eighteen – Wednesday 12th April 2006
Today was all about picking up our friend Glen from JFK Airport. Sounds simple, right? We left the hotel at 9:30am with over three hours to cover the 21 miles to JFK.
Never again will I complain about traffic in Perth. The GPS and MapQuest recommended going through the Lincoln Tunnel right through the heart of New York City, then a couple of freeways—easy as pie, or so we thought.
Our nightmare began at the Lincoln Tunnel exit. Directions said to go straight on Dyer Street… but there was no straight on! I turned left, following a sign for the 495 on the other side of the city. Big mistake. We should’ve gone right. Actually, the bigger mistake was driving to JFK in the first place. My instincts screamed: take public transport. Cheaper, quicker, less stressful. But no, I went with the “direct route” and paid dearly.
Twice the GPS told us to turn onto 34th Street, and twice police officers waved us straight ahead instead. Welcome to New York gridlock. Stress levels soared amid honking horns, cars and trucks cutting us off, and the surreal sight of a hot dog vendor pushing his cart through traffic. We reset the GPS five times, but it kept sending us back to 9th Avenue—behind us on a one-way street! I genuinely thought we might never be heard from again.
Then, salvation! While stuck in traffic, a red double-decker sightseeing bus pulled alongside. The driver looked down, saw Rayls buried under maps and a laptop, and shouted directions: “Turn left at 36th Street, keep going to the Midtown Tunnel—you can’t miss it!” Rayls couldn’t thank him enough. Moments later, traffic cleared, and we found the tunnel.
Still tough going, but we finally made it to JFK. The airport layout is impressive—finding the correct terminal and parking was surprisingly easy.
One thing puzzles us: when traffic is gridlocked, why do people honk incessantly? We even saw a sign warning a $320 fine for honking. If enforced, authorities could make a fortune! Traffic rules in NYC? Forget them. It’s a free-for-all: turn from any lane, weave however you must—just get there. I was tempted to ditch the car at JFK and forget the whole ordeal, but our luggage and Glen’s were still in the back.
For the record: Lincoln Tunnel toll was $6, Midtown Tunnel $4.50, and parking at JFK was $3 for the first 30 minutes, $6 per hour thereafter. More tolls on the way back.
After Glen cleared customs, we took the long way home—down Brooklyn, across Staten Island, into New Jersey, and then a long slog on JFK Boulevard before finally stumbling to the hotel. We checked in, Glen settled, and by 4:30pm took the hotel shuttle bus back into New York City. The traffic nightmare repeated, especially around the Lincoln Tunnel. This time I wasn’t driving, which was a relief. I admire the bus drivers here—how they keep to schedule amidst this chaos is beyond me.
Once dropped off, we walked to the Empire State Building. The line for tickets was only 15 minutes, the elevator ride about 30. Up 80 floors in one lift, then six more on a second. The observation deck was windy as hell, but the views—amazing. On a clear day, you can see 25 miles. It was a bit overcast, but still incredible. Thirty minutes was enough—too windy and crowded to linger.
Next, a quick bite at Burger King (where we seemed to be the only white people), then Macy’s for Rayls to scope out the kitchenware department and compare it to Myer back home.
By the time we reached Times Square, darkness had fallen. Wow. People everywhere, neon lights, street performers—it’s electric. We wandered for a couple of hours soaking it all in.
Finally, we caught the bus back to the hotel.
New York – Day Nineteen – Thursday 13th April 2006
Three goals today—and we nailed them all.
We caught the shuttle into NYC around 8:30am. That tunnel again! The subway was a puzzle—especially buying tickets. We made our way to the World Trade Center station and spent about an hour and a half walking the site. It’s hard to describe the feeling there—quietly moving and reflective.
Back on the subway to 42nd Street, then walked down to Pier 83. We boarded the Circle Line ferry for a three-hour tour around Manhattan Island, sailing close to Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty. The tour was a little long but fascinating for the most part.
Afterwards, we returned to the hotel for a couple of hours’ rest and to freshen up.
Then back into NYC for an evening in Times Square and the Winter Garden Theatre on Broadway. Front-row centre seats for Mamma Mia!—a fantastic show. We loved it.
The bus back to the hotel wrapped up a full day.
New York – Day Twenty – Friday 14th April 2006
Busy morning, then an early night.
Good Friday in NYC is just another day—all shops and restaurants were open.
We started at the New York Transit Museum in Brooklyn. The subway displays were especially interesting.
Then, a long walk across the Brooklyn Bridge back into Manhattan. I asked for directions to the bridge and was told I was already in New York—I really meant Manhattan! NYC is made up of five boroughs: Manhattan, Brooklyn, Queens, The Bronx, and Staten Island. Geography lessons aside, the bridge walk was great. Another to add to the list: Tower Bridge in London, Golden Gate Bridge, Sydney Harbour Bridge, and of course the Narrows and Causeway in Perth.
We should’ve called it a day, but no—after reaching mid-afternoon and dodging drizzle, we took the subway to 72nd Street and walked across Central Park to Fifth Avenue, checking out Strawberry Fields again. It’s a tribute to John Lennon, right across from the Dakota Building where he was shot in 1980. Lots of fans were gathered.
Then subway and bus back to North Bergen, did some shopping, and crashed early. It had been a long day.
New York – Day Twenty-One – Saturday 15th April 2006
Checked out early at 7:15am, heading for Long Island, trying to avoid traffic.
We stopped at the TWA Flight 800 memorial—not sure why, but it felt important.
Then Huntington, Long Island, where Jim and Bette took us in 2001. We found it harder this time—lots of turns—but eventually arrived at the cemetery to pay respects to one of our favourite singers, Harry Chapin.
After leaving Harry’s grave, we started the long journey home. Took the Long Island Expressway, through The Bronx, back into New Jersey, then onto I-80. If we stayed on I-80 long enough, we’d end up in San Francisco!
We drove all afternoon and arrived at a nice hotel in Stroudsburg, Pennsylvania. Bonus: it has a laundry. Finally, some clean clothes! We just might make it to Amy in Utah without needing another laundromat—touch and go.
Chicago – Day Twenty-Two – Sunday 16th April 2006
The scenery crossing Pennsylvania was truly impressive, and our hotel in Stroudsburg, right in the Pocono Mountains, was very nice.
Today we continued west on I-80. The countryside gradually flattened out and became less interesting as we crossed into Ohio, eventually reaching the outskirts of Cleveland. We stayed at a nice hotel in Elyria and explored a bit, though being Easter Sunday most attractions and stores were closed. Even Walmart was shut, but the Applebee’s we found served up great food and friendly service. Early night for us.
Day Twenty-Three – Monday 17th April, 2006
We set off for Chicago today—about 340 miles away. Following Interstate 80, we soon hit Indiana. At one stop, Rayls discovered an Amish area just six miles off the highway, so we detoured north (to go south!) and immediately spotted a “Welcome to Michigan” sign. Turns out I-80 (which had joined I-90) ran just 200 yards/meters from the Michigan border. We made a quick Walmart stop in Michigan, then crossed back into Indiana where Rayls enjoyed a visit to the Amish town of Shipshewana.
By around 2pm (we were never quite sure of the time since we weren’t certain if Indiana was on the same time zone as New York), we headed toward Chicago.
Just before reaching Chicago and still in Indiana, we passed through Gary. You’d think a town named Gary would be charming, but no. It’s an industrial area—sort of like a larger, grittier version of Kwinana back home. From Gary, we could see the Sears Tower looming in downtown Chicago.
Crossing into Illinois, the traffic slowed to a crawl—thanks to a mix of heavy vehicles, toll booths, and roadworks. At one point, we were fascinated by a McDonald’s built right in the middle of the interstate, complete with a drive-thru. Cars in the jam would pull off, grab their food, then merge back into traffic. It took about 90 minutes to get through to the other side of Chicago and reach our hotel.
We stayed at the Elk Grove Village Sheraton Suites—a $300-a-night place we snagged online for just $39! Very nice, and conveniently close to most of the Chicago sights we wanted to visit.
Dinner was at an Outback Steakhouse. Not the most authentic Aussie experience, but the food was good.
Chicago – Day Twenty-Four – Tuesday 18th April 2006
We headed into downtown Chicago, about 20 miles away. I wasn’t keen to drive after my NYC experience, so we took public transport—a whole new world for a Perth bus driver! Glen was a big help navigating it all.
We drove to a Park and Ride a mile from the hotel (we were the only car in the lot), then caught a bus that bypassed the hotel and took us to Rosemont Train Station, on the line between Chicago and O’Hare Airport. The train ride was quite the experience.
Our first stop downtown was the Sears Tower—103 stories high. Rayls and Glen took it in stride, but I panicked and couldn’t even approach the viewing windows. I had managed the Empire State Building okay, but the Sears Tower was another story. Luckily it was a clear day, and the view was magnificent—though I preferred to admire it from the safety of the inner wall.
We spent another four hours wandering Chicago, even catching a ride on the famous ‘L’ elevated train.
The journey back was less smooth: the train took us to Rosemont, but the bus we wanted only ran during peak hours. We took a different bus that dropped us about a 15-minute walk from the hotel. No help from the driver in finding the stop!
In the evening, we caught up with our Chicago friends Dick and Becky. It was great to see them again after five years, and we chatted for hours before heading back to the hotel.
Day Twenty-Five – Wednesday 19th April, 2006
Today, Rayls spent the day at Long Grove—a quaint German settlement now full of charming shops and unique treasures. Perfect for her to while away the hours.
Meanwhile, Glen and Gary went off on their own mission to find a few stores Glen wanted to check out—mostly a Doctor Who shop. They also hit the Woodfield Mall, where Glen discovered a Lego Store!
In the afternoon, we regrouped at Woodfield Mall for some shopping. It’s a major shopping destination.
Dinner was at an Arby’s, then an early night. Glen was flying to LA tomorrow before heading back to Perth.
Buddy Holly – Day Twenty-Six – Thursday 20th April 2006
We checked out of the Sheraton and said our goodbyes to Glen, who was heading back to Perth. Unfortunately, he discovered at O’Hare Airport that the Perth travel agent hadn’t booked his Chicago-to-LA flight. He had to buy a last-minute ticket to catch his connection. Hopefully someone gets a serious kick up the rear, and Glen is reimbursed.
Rayls and I continued on I-90 into Wisconsin, making our way up to Madison. From there, we turned onto Highway 16 (we think?) and enjoyed some truly magnificent countryside, eventually crossing the mighty Mississippi River into Iowa.
Our goal was Mason City, but since we arrived early, we pushed on to Clear Lake. For those unfamiliar, Clear Lake is famous as the site where Buddy Holly, Richie Valens, and the Big Bopper played their last concert on February 3rd, 1959 — before their tragic plane crash, “The Day the Music Died.”
Thanks to the internet, we had directions to the crash site farm and easily found the memorial right where the plane went down. Some might wonder why anyone would visit a crash site, but it was a deeply moving experience and one more dream checked off the list.
We also toured the city, visited the Surf Ballroom where that last concert was held, and snapped plenty of photos. At dinner, the server asked why we were in town. When I explained, she looked puzzled—apparently she had no idea who Buddy Holly was. At 15 years old, you’d think local schools might teach some local history! The main street is even called Buddy Holly Boulevard.
We wrapped up the day in Fairmont, Minnesota—after driving around 470 miles. A big day mileage-wise, but a good one, and now we’re getting anxious to reach our friends Amy and Steve in Utah.
On the Road to Rapid City – Day Twenty-Seven – Friday 21st April 2006
Yesterday’s 470 miles felt like nothing compared to today!
We left Fairmont—sadly our worst hotel so far—and headed west on I-90 toward Rapid City, South Dakota. Somewhere along the way, we gained an hour, so we arrived fairly early, around 3:30pm.
Rapid City is mostly famous for Mount Rushmore, but we’d been there in 2003. This time, we were really keen to visit Bear Country—a drive-through wildlife park where you can see bears roaming free. Rayls loved it on our last visit.
We hadn’t checked if it was open, since it was the same time of year as before, but when we arrived at 3:30pm, the gate was closed for the season. It opens on May 29th. Guess the bears were still hibernating, though they looked wide awake in 2003!
Not to be discouraged, we pressed on. We were anxious to reach Cedar City, so we bypassed Mount Rushmore and headed southwest. Driving through the Black Hills was stunning—the scenery was truly magnificent. East of Rapid City, South Dakota, the land flattens but is colorful and full of character.
We really pushed ourselves and ended up driving a whopping 720 miles. Way too far for one day, but it just sort of happened. We finished the day in Casper, Wyoming—not exactly spooky, but ready for some rest.
Into Utah
Day Twenty-Eight – Saturday 22nd April, 2006
We started early again, marveling at how much the scenery changes as we drove toward I-80, which we last saw near Chicago.
We passed through Rawlins, Rock Springs, and Green River on our way into Utah and Salt Lake City.
We spent about three hours in Sandy, a Salt Lake City suburb, where Rayls had a wonderful time (and spent a bit too much!) at Quilts Etc.
Then we headed to Provo for dinner at a Sizzler.
We tried to find a hotel in Provo but ended up staying in Nephi, just a couple of hours from Cedar City. That’s where we’ll be staying for a week with our good friends Amy, Steve, and their son Daniel.
This part feels like the holiday within the holiday — a chance to relax before we head to Vegas for a couple of days, then LA for a day or so, and finally back home.
Cedar City – Day Twenty-Nine to Day Thirty-Nine – Sunday 23rd April to Wednesday 3rd May 2006
We feel incredibly lucky to have such wonderful friends as Amy, Steve, and their son Daniel—who live in one of the most beautiful parts of the country. Cedar City isn’t too big, but it has everything you need, and the scenery is simply breathtaking.
Amy has been an email pen-pal for over ten years. Every day we exchange a few words about life, creating a fascinating diary of our journeys and adventures. Steve, Amy’s husband, works as a Park Ranger at Cedar Breaks National Monument, and Daniel is just about to turn 13. Their daughter Katie is away at college.
We’ve felt right at home, spending lazy hours lounging around, watching movies from their extensive DVD and video collection. One day, we even went to the cinema and caught RV with Robin Williams—a fun break from travel.
Steve took us flying twice in his Cessna 172. The first flight was just Steve and me, soaring over Kolob Canyon, Zion National Park, and back over Cedar Breaks and Brian Head before landing. Cedar City Airport sits at over 5,000 feet, but to cross the surrounding mountains we climbed to about 12,000 feet—the views were jaw-dropping.
On the second flight, Rayls joined us, and we flew to the Grand Canyon. Steve’s knowledge made the experience even richer, pointing out landmarks and sharing stories as we went. Between us, we took 111 photos! Both flights were incredibly smooth, with only a few minor bumps.
Amy also drove us up to Brian Head, about 45 minutes away. She took us as far as the snow-blocked road allowed. Brian Head is the highest point in the area and a ski resort—though closed for the summer, plenty of snow remained. We had fun pelting each other with snowballs and chunks of ice, even if our hands quickly grew numb!
We’ve done a bit of shopping, enjoyed meals at lovely local restaurants, and savoured Amy’s excellent home cooking. Recently, she bought a bread maker and rice cooker, and we were happy to be her guinea pigs—luckily, both experiments turned out great!
It’s been a wonderfully relaxing few days. We’ve truly enjoyed our time here, and we’ll be sad to leave such a special place and such great friends behind.
Las Vegas – Day Forty – Thursday 4th May 2006
We left Cedar City today, driving along I-15 through St. George, briefly dipping into Arizona for about 20 minutes before crossing into Nevada. The drive to Las Vegas took roughly two and a half hours, and we stayed at the Sahara. The hotel was nice enough, though a bit far down one end of the Strip to comfortably walk the entire length (and back).
We wandered along the Strip for a while and stumbled upon a ticket booth offering 50% off. Rayls scored us great seats for a concert featuring The Platters, The Drifters, and The Coasters—right at our hotel. After dinner, we enjoyed the show, which was fantastic.
We’re not really into gambling, so Las Vegas isn’t exactly our ideal playground, but we always have fun taking in the sights and watching the crowds.
View from the hotel
The Strip at night
Rayls soaking it all in
Outside the Sahara
Day Forty-One – Friday 5th May 2006
This morning we checked out Fremont Street—no light show today, but it was still interesting to see. We cruised down the Strip again before checking out of the hotel, then spent a couple of hours at an outlet mall just a few miles from the south end of the Strip.
We left Vegas around 3:30 pm and arrived in Barstow by 5:30 pm. Spent some time at Walmart, picking up five or six DVDs—trying to build a movie collection to rival Amy and Steve’s!
It felt surreal being back in Barstow, at the same hotel we stayed at 40 days ago when we started our trip along I-40. Different room this time, but the same dinner spot—Denny’s—just like six weeks ago. Tomorrow, it’s off to Los Angeles.
Scott McKenzie — Days Forty-Two to Forty-Four (6–8 May, 2006)
We had a slow start on Saturday morning, finally hitting the road around 10 am, making our way into Los Angeles. Our big plan for the day was to catch up with our good friend Scott McKenzie at his home after lunch.
Before that, we stopped at Best Buy in Victorville to pick up some birthday gifts for our son Scott—his birthday was just around the corner.
We checked into a Marriott hotel near Scott’s place. The hotel was nice enough, though the $16 a day parking fee was a bit of a sting.
We arrived at Scott’s house around 2 pm and spent a few lovely hours chatting and catching up. If you haven’t heard of Scott McKenzie, he’s the guy behind that worldwide No. 1 hit from 1967 — San Francisco (Be Sure To Wear Flowers In Your Hair). What a legend!
Later, we went out for dinner at Scott’s favourite restaurant and just enjoyed a really nice day together.
Sunday Morning – Final Day Prep
The day began with a lovely breakfast with Scott. He’s such an interesting guy, and Gary even managed to gather some great information for his Scott McKenzie website.
In the afternoon, we returned to the hotel to face the usual challenge of packing—somehow there always seems to be more stuff than fits in the suitcases!
We had an early night in a very comfortable hotel, ready for the final day of our trip.
Monday – Final Day
Monday was our last day of the trip. After a leisurely start, we checked out and headed back to Scott’s place. Rayls even managed to squeeze in some guitar lessons — what a perfect farewell gift!
In the afternoon, we went out with Scott to track down a milkshake place he fondly remembered. But, as can happen with LA traffic and the infamous I-5, we got a bit lost and had to return to Scott’s without the milkshakes. Still, spirits remained high!
Spending time with Scott was fantastic — he’s such a genuine, lovely guy with a unique sense of humour. We’re already looking forward to seeing him again on our next trip.
Later that evening, we drove to LAX, returned the car at Alamo (a solid ride, a bit thirsty on fuel but reliable), and caught the shuttle to the airport. Despite some flight delays, we grabbed dinner at McDonald’s, breezed through immigration, and settled in at the departure gate. Hearing Aussie accents again was oddly comforting.
Our Qantas flight took off at 11:30 pm. After landing early Wednesday morning in Brisbane, clearing customs, and catching our connection, we were back in Perth by early afternoon. Ryan and Scott greeted us — a perfect end to an amazing journey.
Now the countdown begins — just 887 days until the next adventure in 2008!
That’s me done! All good.
Gaz
The 2006 road trip across the United States and Canada was an unforgettable adventure, blending iconic landmarks, scenic drives, and meaningful encounters. From the solemn reflection at the Oklahoma City Memorial to the breathtaking Niagara Falls and the historic streets of New York and Chicago, every stop offered something unique. Highlights included exploring Amish Country, flying over Cedar Breaks and the Grand Canyon with friends Amy and Steve, and soaking in the lights and shows of Las Vegas. Meeting and spending time with Scott McKenzie in Los Angeles, sharing stories and music, was a true highlight. Despite long drives and city traffic chaos, the trip was filled with laughter, discovery, and lasting friendships—a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
