World Trip 2001
Our big adventure kicked off on 13th July 2001 — my first overseas trip since 1987, and Rayls’ first since 1980. So this was a pretty big deal for both of us.
We started out from Perth, flew to Sydney (with a quick stop in Melbourne), then headed off to the USA — first Los Angeles, then New York. We spent about six weeks travelling around the States, soaking it all in, before flying out of LA to London, then on to Amsterdam.
From there, we hit the road and drove to Paris. And, in a twist of fate, our flight home to Perth via Singapore was on 11 September 2001 — a day the world will never forget.
The Beginning
Departure – Friday 13th July 2001
Our 2001 trip — our first ever to the USA — kicked off on Friday the 13th of July. Just eight days earlier, I had taken early retirement from the Western Australian Police Service, so what better way to celebrate than a trip around the world?
We were dropped off at the Perth Domestic Airport by our youngest son, Scott, with Ryan (our eldest) coming along to see us off. A special family moment before takeoff.
We were pleasantly surprised to be upgraded to business class for our first flight to Sydney. Qantas Flight 506 boarded at 12:25 am and took off just 15 minutes behind schedule. So far, so good — or so we thought.
Well… so much for business class comfort! The person in front of me reclined their seat the moment they could, pinning me in so tightly I couldn’t even get out. That’s how I stayed for the entire flight — jammed in and grumpy.
Everything was going smoothly until about 45 minutes before landing, when the pilot announced Sydney was fog-bound and we’d need to circle for a while. Not long after, we were told there was no improvement, and we were being diverted to Melbourne. Cue rising stress levels — we had a connecting international flight in Sydney!
We landed in Melbourne around 7:00 am and were directed to the customer service desk. We were rebooked on QF414 and told to go to Gate 23. I rang Scott back in Perth and said, “Guess where we are?”
We boarded at 7:55 am, but were soon asked to disembark again — Sydney was still fogged in. We tried again at 8:30, but the pilot announced more delays. Finally, at 9:55 am, we took off.
We touched down in Sydney at 10:58 am, and made a mad dash to the Transfer Desk, onto the shuttle bus, and through Immigration and Security. We made it to Gate 31 for QF107 — our flight to LA — just in time. Our seats were right at the back, one on the aisle and one by the window on the left side of the 747-400.
That flight was also delayed — more passengers from around Australia and New Zealand were running late too. Then we had to wait again while some passengers were either found or their luggage offloaded. It was one of those travel days.
We finally departed Sydney at 12:39 pm — nearly 10 hours after leaving Perth. So much for a nice relaxing stopover!
The flight to LA took 13 hours and 22 minutes, arriving at 8:01 am local time. A bit bumpy in places, but otherwise fine. At LAX, we were directed to a transit lounge while the plane was cleaned — our first real look at American people, which was interesting in itself.
At 9:20 am, we reboarded for our flight to New York. Many passengers had disembarked in LA, so we had plenty of room to stretch out. Takeoff was at 9:50 am, heading west initially before circling back east — a scenic route with great views over LA, Las Vegas, the Grand Canyon, and later Chicago, Detroit, London (in Canada), and Buffalo.
We began our descent at 4:54 pm and landed at JFK at 5:25 pm. Immigration only took 15 minutes — quick and painless — but we were anxious about the luggage. After all, it had gone from Perth to Melbourne, then Sydney, LA, and finally New York. No worries though — our bags were among the first dozen to come out.
At the gate, we were warmly welcomed by our friends Jim and Bette, who we’d only ever known via email until now. It was great to meet in person.
They drove us to Jim’s daughter’s house in New Jersey, giving us a lovely view of the New York skyline on the way. We even crossed our first American state line — from New York into New Jersey — something you don’t get to do in Australia.
We met up with one of Jim’s daughters, Tracy, and her family at a softball game, then headed back to her home where we’d be staying for a few days.
After a bit of chatting and winding down, we finally headed to bed at 10:15 pm — and incredibly, after all that, it was still Friday, 13th July 2001. A full 36 hours after we left Perth!
New York
Saturday 14th July 2001
We woke up early—5:00am—to the sound of birds chirping in the peaceful residential area of Griggstown, New Jersey. It’s a lovely spot with lots of trees and gardens. A very relaxing place to wake up after a long travel day.
Around 8:00am, Jim, Rayls, and I headed off for New York City, about 45 minutes away. We grabbed a McDonald’s breakfast en route, then drove through the Lincoln Tunnel and parked in the Hipperdrome Car Park (love that name!).
We explored 5th Avenue, stopping by the CBS and NBC studios, and then continued up to 59th Street and Central Park, where we took a classic horse-drawn carriage ride through the park. Next, we caught the subway to 72nd Street, walked to Strawberry Fields, and visited the Dakota Building, where John Lennon was tragically killed.
From there, we jumped in a cab to Madison Square Garden, then back on the subway to Battery Park. The lines were long everywhere, especially for the ferry to Liberty Island, but we passed the time chatting with a lovely family from Georgia.
We only made it up to the 10th level inside the Statue of Liberty—around the feet—but it was still worth it. Then it was another long line back onto the ferry, with a brief stop at Ellis Island, the historical gateway for immigrants arriving in the US.
Back at Battery Park, we caught the subway to 72nd Street and had dinner at a pavement diner. Afterward, we headed to the Empire State Building—yes, more long lines. I actually fell asleep standing up in line! But the view was worth it: you could see planes lining up from three major airports in the distance. Incredible sight!
Finally, we returned to the car—long wait there too—and somehow got out of the car park without paying. Bonus!
We arrived back in Griggstown at 1:30am. What a day!
History and Music
Sunday 15th July 2001
Today was a full and enjoyable day. After breakfast, we drove to Red Bluff to visit Jay & Silent Bob’s Secret Stash, a comic book store owned by filmmaker Kevin Smith. The shop is named after the fictional duo portrayed by Smith and Jason Mewes in his View Askewniverse films. This stop was especially for our sons, who are big fans.
Then we headed to Lakehurst, New Jersey, where we visited the site of the 1937 Hindenburg crash. Earlier in the day, Jim had asked if there was anything I especially wanted to see, and my answer was simple—the Hindenburg site. And here we were. There isn’t much to look at now, but standing on the exact spot of such a historic disaster was a powerful moment. After 9/11 the area was closed to everyone except American citizens, so we felt fortunate to have the opportunity to visit.
In the evening, we attended the Remembering Harry Chapin concert at the George Street Playhouse in New Brunswick, marking the 20th anniversary of Chapin’s passing. John McMenamin had performed annual tribute shows, but this was the first to include members of Chapin’s own band, including the legendary Big John Wallace. It was a fantastic performance, full of energy and emotion. During intermission, we had the great honour of meeting Harry’s son, Josh—a truly special moment and highlight of the night.
Into New England
Monday 16th July 2001
Another early start as Jim and Bette joined us for a road trip. First stop was West Point, where we checked out the visitor centre—and yes, Rayls found another bear for her collection. We also stopped at Inspiration Point for a photo op.
From there, we headed north along I-87, passing Albany, New York, and into Bennington, Vermont, where we had lunch. Rayls scored a free meal after mayo was mistakenly added to her dish. I had my first “language barrier” moment when asked what kind of bread I wanted: “White, wheat, or rye?” I thought she said “white wheat or rye,” and confidently asked for “white wheat.” That got a laugh from the waitress!
Next, we visited Remington, VT, where Rayls did some shopping while I relaxed with an ice cream. Then we drove through Keene, New Hampshire, and ended the day in Tilton, NH, where we checked into a Super 8 motel.
We explored a nearby outlet mall and had dinner at a diner. I wasn’t feeling 100%, so I ordered a Caesar salad without tomato—and ended up with just a bowl of lettuce. Apparently, my refusal to pronounce “tomato” with an American accent is a source of entertainment!
We covered 390 miles today. Tired, but full of memories.
Keepsake Quilting & Long Island
Tuesday 17th July 2001
Breakfast was light—hotel donuts—before heading out on Highways 3 and 25 toward Meredith, New Hampshire.
We arrived in Center Harbor around 8:20am and browsed the supermarket while waiting for Keepsake Quilting to open at 9:00am. While Rayls happily spent over an hour inside the store, Jim and I headed back to Meredith to an internet café.
From there, we made our way through Meredith, Manchester, and down into Massachusetts. We jumped on I-495, then W290, joined the Mass Pike at Auburn, and eventually I-84 into Connecticut.
We passed through Hartford, crossed the Throgs Neck Bridge, and continued out to Long Island. We got a bit lost in Huntington, but a helpful Suffolk County Police Officer set us straight—and was happy to receive a WA Police patch from me in return.
At around 6:00pm, we visited the gravesite of Harry Chapin, one of my musical heroes. It was exactly 20 years and one day since his passing. Quite a moving moment.
From there, we went to Hechler Park for the rededication of the Flowers Amphitheatre in Harry’s honour. We met his widow, Sandy Chapin, and caught up again with Josh Chapin. Tom Chapin performed some kids’ songs, joined by his band—including one member who wrote the Entertainment Tonight theme!
We bypassed NYC on the way back and finally arrived in Griggstown.
Washington D.C.
Wednesday 18th July 2001
Packed up and said our goodbyes to Tracy and her husband Jim. It had been a lovely stay in Griggstown, but it was time to hit the road again.
We jumped onto Highway 95, crossed the Delaware River into Pennsylvania, and stopped at a McDonald’s in Langhorne for breakfast. Soon after, we passed through Philadelphia, catching a glimpse of the stadium from the freeway.
Before long, we were into Delaware, and about an hour and a half later, crossed into Maryland, driving through the Fort McHenry Tunnel in Baltimore.
We arrived in Washington D.C. and checked into a Days Inn—our first stay at that chain. After settling in, we headed to the Hawk and Dove for lunch, where we met Michelle, a friend of Jim’s. She’s originally from Alaska and works as a lobbyist for an Eskimo group—fascinating person.
After lunch, we visited Michelle’s office so I could check my email (this was 2001 after all!). Then we headed to Union Station and browsed the shops for a while before taking a drive through D.C.’s heavy traffic, catching glimpses of iconic sites like the White House as we went.
Back at the hotel, we were well and truly ready to crash.
Thursday 19th July 2001
Another early start. We took the hotel shuttle bus to Union Station and hopped on a Tourlink Pass for a full day of sightseeing.
First stop was the National Museum of American History, followed by a walk to the Holocaust Museum—a sobering and powerful experience.
From there we made our way to the Lincoln Memorial, one of my personal favourites. It’s a beautiful spot, especially with the nearby Korean War Memorial, Vietnam Veterans Memorial, and the iconic reflecting pool.
Next, we took a tram to Arlington National Cemetery to see the gravesites of John F. Kennedy and Robert F. Kennedy. A very moving part of the day.
Afterward, we took another tram toward the White House, then walked to Metro Center and caught the Metro subway to L’Enfant Plaza. There, we visited the National Air and Space Museum, part of the Smithsonian Institution. It was absolutely incredible—Apollo 11’s Command Module, The Spirit of St. Louis, the original Wright Brothers flyer, and more. It’s an aviation and space nerd’s dream!
We tried to walk back to Union Station but were all feeling the day catching up with us, so Jim hailed a cab to take us back to the hotel.
After an hour or so to recharge, we headed out again to Tysons Corner for dinner at Clyde’s. We were supposed to meet another of Jim’s friends, but she didn’t show. Still, the evening wasn’t without entertainment—I ordered a cheese platter and ended up spitting one of the cheeses back out in disgust. The table thought it was hilarious. Another fun moment in a great day.
Jim and Bette continue to be absolutely fantastic company.
Road Trip to South Carolina
Friday 20th July 2001
Up early—again! We packed the car, checked out of the hotel, and grabbed McDonald’s breakfast before hitting the road at 9:10am.
We took the 495 Beltway, then Virginia Route 7, and headed straight back to Tysons Corner Mall. There, Rayls bought a Build-A-Bear, which would become our signing bear for the trip. I picked up a Harry Chapin CD—great little haul.
From there, we continued west on Road 7, making our way through Maryland, Virginia, and into West Virginia. By 12:20pm, we arrived at Harpers Ferry, a scenic little town with charming stores and great views. We spent about an hour exploring before hitting the road again.
Just five minutes later, we spotted our first Wal-Mart of the trip—no way we were passing that up! Something tells me it won’t be our last stop at one either…
As we approached Richmond, we made a decision—rather than overnighting somewhere along the way, we’d drive all the way to Jim and Bette’s home in Prosperity, South Carolina. Yep, a big haul, but we were up for it.
We met up with Richard Campbell (a Mama Cass and Mamas & Papas expert) for dinner at Cracker Barrel in Richmond. We’d connected online through my Scott McKenzie website, and it was great to meet in person.
After that, it was a long drive across North Carolina (most of which we slept through) and finally into South Carolina, arriving at Jim and Bette’s house at 2:00am.
A huge day of travel—but what a journey!
Saturday 21st July 2001
It was nice to be in a home again. A quiet day compared to the past week. I checked email and spent some time surfing.
Jim and I went off to Columbia to see about getting my video camera fixed. It’s brand new, and when Scott called the shop we bought it from (in Perth), he was told to bring it back. Hard to do when you’re in the USA! We also went to Best Buy and a Barnes & Noble—cool shops.
Rayls and Bette stayed home and did some washing, which was much needed. In the afternoon I napped while Rayls and Bette went to Walmart to grocery shop and get photos developed.
Sandwiches for dinner.
Sunday 22nd July, 2001
Quiet start to the day. We went to a Jockey Mart, which was a bit like a big garage sale.
I took it easy in the afternoon—it had been a hard week after all—while Rayls and Bette headed into Columbia to visit Michaels, a craft shop similar to Lincraft back home.
The evening was simple: watched a bit of TV and enjoyed a quiet night.
Monday 23rd July, 2001
Today we had breakfast with Jim’s pals at McDonald’s. Good bunch of guys—you know the type: baseball caps, chatting about all sorts of things. This is a regular gathering, and we soon found that it’s common all over the USA. Groups of guys, usually elderly, often military veterans, always wearing baseball caps, attracted to McDonald’s for the free coffee and the chance to reminisce with their mates.
After breakfast, we went to a Wal-Mart and then to the post office to get stamps for postcards. Later, we had a tour of the Newberry Opera House, of which Jim and Bette are volunteer helpers—a great place.
We also had a stroll through Newberry, checking out some of the shops, then went to the bank where Bette works and met Jim’s other daughter Tina and her sons, Brandon and Cooper. Lunch was at Pharaohs.
Back in mid-afternoon, I watched TV. I’m really into TVLand and the Leave it to Beaver episodes they show—it takes me back a long way. Leftovers for dinner—very nice too.
Wednesday 25th July, 2001
Up early and on the road by 8:30 am. Breakfast was at a McDonald’s in a town called Chapin! We called in at the Prince of Orange Mall and bought the new Neil Diamond CD, Three Chord Opera, which was released today. We are fans, but after listening to this CD once, never again.
We drove through the towns of Roweville, Branchville, Bells, Yemassee (this is where the Marines catch the train to NYC), Garden’s Corner, Whale Branch River, and onto Beaufort. From there, we visited Parris Island, a Marine Corps Recruit Depot tasked with training enlisted Marines. Jim’s father had been based here early in his career and eventually became a highly decorated General.
We watched some firearms training and had lunch at the base Subway Restaurant. Later, we visited a museum and the base shop, where Rayls managed to get her first Cherished Teddie for the trip (8th day—not bad!).
Next, we headed to Hunting Island National Park and the coast of the Atlantic Ocean. There were signs of a recent storm, with uprooted trees, and we all stood ankle-deep in the Atlantic—our first time seeing this ocean.
Afterwards, we returned to Beaufort and stayed at the house of an old friend of Jim’s. We enjoyed a pleasant walk along the waterfront—the area where the shrimp boat scenes were filmed for Forrest Gump. Back at the house, we had a chat with Jim and his friend Kathy before heading off to bed.
Thursday 26th July, 2001
Today we headed back to Prosperity—wish that involved getting rich, but it didn’t. At 9:30 am, we left Beaufort and hit the road for Charleston. We drove through Jacksonboro and reached Charleston just before 11:00 am.
Our first stop was the Cooper River Bridge to visit the USS Yorktown, a decommissioned aircraft carrier. We strolled around the ship and even explored the nearby submarine—definitely cramped quarters!
Next, we visited the Charleston Slave Market. While there were no slaves, it was interesting to see the historical artifacts and walk through the surrounding markets. Lunch was at an Applebee’s nearby.
On the way back, we admired some of Charleston’s grand mansions—many reminded us of scenes from Gone With The Wind. We then drove west on Interstate 26, bypassed Columbia, and finally arrived in Prosperity at 5:10 pm.
Friday 27th July, 2001
All good things must come to an end, and our time with Jim and Bette was nearly over. What a great time we had with these wonderful people. Hopefully, we will meet again one day—whether here in the USA or back home in Australia.
Just after lunch, we left Prosperity and headed for Greenwood, where we joined Tina, her husband Tony, and their sons Brandon and Cooper. We departed Greenwood at 1:35 pm and drove to Atlanta, arriving just after 4:30 pm.
We checked into a Days Inn and had dinner at Red Lobster. It was a large gathering and a bit sad, as it was our last night with Jim and Bette.
Back at the hotel just before 9:00 pm, we caught the hotel shuttle bus to the airport at 9:40 pm, with Jim coming along to show us the way. Scott landed around 10:20 pm on AA1822. He had flown from LA to Dallas and then rushed to catch the flight to Atlanta. It was nice to see Scott (who was 18) again and hear news from home. He even brought some Aussie lollies—very nice.
Back at the hotel, we had a chat and then headed to bed.
Saturday 28th July 2001 – Chicago: From Atlanta to the Windy City
We were up early and packed—time to say goodbye to Jim and Bette. Scott had his first try of a US McDonald’s, and we spent some time in the hotel car park kicking the footy around. It was great to see him again.
At 10:30 am, we said our goodbyes to Jim, Bette, and their family. It was genuinely hard to leave. They had gone above and beyond, driving thousands of miles to show us around. A simple “thank you” never felt like enough. Hopefully, we’ll see them again—whether back in the States or in Australia.
At 11:15 am, Rayls, Scott, and I took the shuttle bus to Atlanta Airport, making use of kerbside check-in (a lifesaver with the number of bags we had). We did a bit of shopping before heading to Gate T10 to board AA Flight 1141—an MD80 (Super 80) aircraft.
We took off at 3:37 pm, flying north via Alabama and towards St. Louis in a wide arc thanks to weather conditions. At 4:01 pm, we began our descent, with a long, cloudy approach into Chicago O’Hare and barely a glimpse of Lake Michigan. We landed at 4:40 pm and docked at Gate K2.
Waiting for us were our long-time friends Dick and Becky. Dick—now a police officer in Rolling Meadows, Illinois—was the original spark for this whole US trip. Back in 1993, he had written to the Chief of Police in Perth seeking a pen pal. I was working in the Commissioner’s Office at the time, saw the letter, decided to reply… and the rest is history.
Over the years, Dick and I exchanged letters, emails, and videos. He even visited Western Australia in 1995, where we tagged along as he toured the state for a community policing project. Now, it was our turn.
They drove us to our Holiday Inn, and after freshening up, we visited Dick and Becky’s home, where we met their lovely daughters, Jessica and Jamie. Dinner was a classic American BBQ—hot dogs, cheeseburgers, and Jessica’s delicious brownies.
Later, we were treated to a local ice hockey game—just a social one, but fascinating. Not much ice hockey back home in Australia!
We ended the night back at the hotel and had a quick phone chat with Ryan before crashing for the night.
Sunday 29th July 2001 – Touring Chicago
Dick and his family picked us up in the morning, and we started the day with breakfast at McDonald’s.
We drove into downtown Chicago, though it was quite a hazy day. Our first stop was the Museum of Science and Industry, then we hopped on a trolley bus past Soldier Field to the Field Museum, where we saw Sue the T-Rex, the largest and most complete Tyrannosaurus skeleton ever found. Incredible.
From there, we walked to the Shedd Aquarium to see a fantastic dolphin and Beluga whale show.
Afterwards, we took the trolley back and drove to the Sears Tower (now Willis Tower), where we braved the queues and enjoyed breathtaking views from the observation deck.
Next, a stop at the United Center for photos with the Michael Jordan statue—a must for any visit to Chicago.
Around 6pm, we headed back to Dick’s place. For dinner, we went to an Outback Steakhouse, which was quite the experience. The owner, Erik, was keen to chat with some actual Aussies. I told him the only thing missing was a bit of cricket on the TVs instead of baseball.
After a fun evening, we got back to the hotel around 9:15pm.
Monday 30th July 2001 – Shopping, Spa, and Supper in Uniform
After confirming our shuttle to the airport for Wednesday, Scott tested out the hotel spa, and we checked out the ‘Holidome’, the hotel’s entertainment area. I beat Scott at table tennis, but he took me down in pool.
At 10:30am, we caught the shuttle to Woodfield Mall, a massive shopping centre. We had breakfast and explored a few stores, including Sears, where Rayls fell in love with the quilt section.
At 12:30pm, we met Becky, Jessica and Jamie for more shopping. Scott and I tried root beer for the first (and probably last) time—definitely an acquired taste. We picked up a shirt for Ryan and had a great afternoon.
Around 2pm, we visited the Enesco factory outlet, creators of Rayls’ favourite Cherished Teddies. Lots of fun (especially for Rayls!).
By 3:30pm, we were back at the hotel via Dick’s house. The kids—Jessica, Jamie and Scott—had a swim, and I managed a quick nap.
Dinner was at the County Buffet, joined by Dick (who was on duty and in uniform!). After dinner, we had a look at his police cruiser, and Scott met one of Dick’s colleagues—Johnny Utah, a former professional wrestler, which was a big deal for wrestling-fan Scott.
We finished off the evening with a visit to Wal-Mart to develop photos, then to Best Buy—I really like these stores.
Our last stop was 7-Eleven, where Scott bought an Extreme Gulp drink. Interesting experience… and later we were told that maybe we shouldn’t have been there at that time of night. Apparently holdups are pretty common at that store. We were lucky.
Back at the hotel by 9:30pm—another full and fun day.
Tuesday 31st July 2001 – Games, Gifts and Goodbyes
A slow start this morning with a bit of packing.
At 11:00am, Dick picked us up and took Scott and me to GameWorks at Woodfield Mall—basically three hours of arcade-style fun. Meanwhile, Rayls went with Becky and the girls to Long Grove Village, a collection of 19th-century homes turned into shops. She was there for about 7 hours and only scratched the surface.
After GameWorks, Scott and I had a late McDonald’s lunch, then caught the shuttle back to the hotel at 4pm to relax.
One of Dick’s bosses dropped by briefly, and Dick popped in too, but had to head out on an urgent call.
That evening we met at Dick and Becky’s house for dinner. Even though Dick was on duty, he made time to stop by with a colleague. We also called our friend Choya to confirm arrangements for the next leg—he’d be meeting us at Houston Airport.
It was a quiet, reflective evening with Becky and the girls, and another sad farewell when we returned to the hotel. We’ve had such a wonderful time with this beautiful family. So many laughs, stories, and memories.
But now—it’s time to move on.
Texas
Wednesday 1st August 2001 – Hello Houston
The alarm went off at 5:00am, and by 6:30am we were on the hotel shuttle bus to O’Hare Airport. The check-in process was… stressful, to say the least. Too many bags, not enough coffee.
We flew AA781 from Chicago to Houston, departing from Gate H18 at 10:51am on a Fokker 100. Our flight path took us over St. Louis, southeast Missouri, Little Rock, and into Louisiana, before finally reaching Texas.
At 11:58am, we touched down at Gate A25 and were warmly welcomed by our good friends Choya, his wife Vicki, and their kids Casey and Aaron.
On the way to the hotel, we stopped at a furniture megastore—because, yes, everything really is bigger in Texas.
After a short rest at the hotel, we headed into downtown Houston. Dinner was a quick bite at McDonald’s, then it was off to Enron Field (now Minute Maid Park) for a Houston Astros vs New York Mets game. The stadium was fantastic and the game even better—a real highlight.
Back to the hotel and straight to bed. Big day.
Thursday 2nd August 2001 – NASA & Moon Rocks
We hit the road at 8:00am, but not before a crucial stop at Shipley’s Donuts—hands down, the best donuts ever.
By 9:15am, we were at the Johnson Space Center, where we spent the whole day. There was so much to see—decades of history, technology, and inspiration.
We took both the Blue Tour (to the historic Apollo-era mission control) and the Red Tour (to the modern mission control). In the Visitor Center, we touched a moon rock, stood where JFK gave his iconic speech, had lunch, watched an IMAX movie, and, of course, browsed the gift shop.
At 5:00pm, we hit the road again, making another quick stop at a furniture store before heading to Bryan, Texas, where Choya and his family live. We arrived around 7:00pm, had a quiet night, and watched some TV.
Friday 3rd August 2001 – Aggies, Bush & Batting Practice
A slower day today. We went to Best Buy and Barnes & Noble (two of our favourites), then had a tour of Bryan and neighbouring College Station.
We visited Texas A&M University—Go Aggies!—and the George H.W. Bush Presidential Library. Outside the library is a powerful statue: horses leaping over pieces of the Berlin Wall, representing the fall of communism during Bush’s presidency. Impressive and moving.
Later, Scott joined Choya and the kids at a batting cage. He tried to show off some Aussie baseball skills. Results were… mixed, but fun.
Saturday 4th August 2001 – High Above Texas
Today was something none of us had ever done before—a hot air balloon ride!
Choya, who is a lieutenant with the Bryan Police Department and an avid balloonist, arranged for us to go up in one of his balloons. We met his crew early in the morning and headed to a rural launch site.
The flight was short—only about 30 minutes—and we were flying low due to light winds. At one point, a crop duster plane buzzed us, wanting to dust the field below. Awkward. We landed safely on a nearby road where the crew picked us up. What a unique experience—huge thanks to Choya!
On the way home we made a vital stop—Shipley’s Donuts again. Breakfast of champions.
Back at the house by 9:00am, we packed the truck and at noon hit the road for Reagan, Texas, to visit Jo, Choya’s mother.
Jo’s home sits on a lovely rural property and she welcomed us warmly. She and Rayls talked for hours about quilts and teddy bears. Turns out Jo and her late husband once lived in the Kimberley region of Western Australia, adding a wonderful personal connection.
Sunday 5th August 2001 – Driving & Dairy Queen
A nice, peaceful day in Reagan. I got behind the wheel for the first time this trip.
Choya, Scott and I drove to Marlin for a bit of shopping. Later, Rayls and I joined Choya for a drive to Hearne, where we met up with Vicki and Casey at a Dairy Queen.
Not exactly thrilling stuff, but a great way to get driving experience on Texan roads.
We spent the evening watching TV and enjoying good conversation
Monday 6th August 2001 – Dreams & Dealey Plaza
We packed up and left Reagan at 10:30am, bound for Dallas.
We arrived around 1:45pm and headed straight to the home of Choya’s sister, Honda, who kindly hosted us for the next two nights.
After lunch and settling in, we made our way to Dealey Plaza—a dream come true for me.
Since November 1963, I’ve wanted to visit the place where President Kennedy was assassinated. Seeing it in person was surreal. We explored every angle—the grassy knoll, the book depository, and the plaza itself. It was hard to believe I was actually standing there.
Back at the house by 4:45pm, Rayls went shopping with Honda and Choya, while I helped assemble a table tennis table with Honda’s husband. It was hot, fiddly work—but oddly satisfying.
Tuesday 7th August 2001 – A Day for JFK
This was my day—but it started with a mishap. I lost a filling while brushing my teeth! A quick dental appointment was arranged for later.
At 9:45am, Choya, Rayls, Scott and I headed back to Dealey Plaza, where we toured the Sixth Floor Museum inside the Texas School Book Depository. I stood at the sniper’s window, saw the exhibits, and browsed the gift shop. It was fascinating and emotional.
We visited Parkland Hospital, where JFK was taken, then drove to the boarding house where Oswald lived, and the backyard where the infamous rifle photo was taken. Taking photos there was… an experience—the neighbourhood wasn’t exactly Beverly Hills.
Next, we visited the site where Officer J.D. Tippit was killed, followed by the Texas Theatre, where Oswald was arrested. We were home by 2:30pm, and I went to the dentist at 3:15pm to get patched up.
After dinner, we returned one final time to Dealey Plaza. I just needed that last look. We arrived home around 6:30pm, played some table tennis, and Scott had a swim. A great end to a special couple of days in Dallas.
Los Angeles
Wednesday 8th August 2001 – Reunion at Last
Today was a day of heartfelt goodbyes and exciting hellos.
We said goodbye to Honda and Mark, then Choya and Aaron kindly drove us to the sprawling Dallas Fort Worth Airport. Another farewell as we parted with Choya and Aaron—our amazing hosts during the Texas leg.
Navigating the airport, we took the terminal train from Terminal One to Terminal Two, luggage in tow, which was now quite the collection.
At 10:45am, we boarded AA2413, taking off at 11:13am. Just four minutes later, at 11:17am LA time, we began our descent. We touched down at 11:42am, docking at Gate 48A. This was a big moment—finally meeting our pen pal Amy, whom we’d been emailing daily for nearly six years!
But Amy wasn’t waiting at arrivals. Instead, a message over the PA called for “Gary Hartman” to pick up a courtesy phone. Cue a bit of chaos—no phone number, no coins, and a public phone that swallowed every coin fed into it. After what felt like an hour of fumbling, we finally borrowed a cell phone, but still couldn’t get through. Then, just as frustration peaked, Amy appeared with her two kids, Katie and Daniel. What a relief!
After warm greetings and catching up, we squeezed into Amy’s packed car—six people plus luggage—and headed to our hotel, a Days Inn in Buena Park, conveniently near Disneyland and walking distance from Knott’s Berry Farm.
After settling in, we headed to Knott’s Berry Farm where everyone had a great time—even Gary braved the roller coaster! We finally got back to the hotel around 11:30pm, exhausted but happy.
Thursday 9th August 2001 – Universal Studios Fun
Up bright and early at 8:00am for breakfast at the nearby Burger King, then a scenic hour’s drive to Universal Studios, arriving around 10:30am.
Our crew included Rayls, Scott, Amy, Katie, Daniel, and me. The day was packed with rides: Jurassic Park, Back To The Future, E.T., Backdraft, plus the exciting Waterworld show. The highlight for me was the Studio Tour, a fascinating behind-the-scenes peek.
Lunch was Italian—perhaps not the best idea before hopping on the Back To The Future ride again, but we survived!
We called it a day by 9:10pm, tired but buzzing from all the fun.
Friday 10th August 2001 – Hollywood & Baseball
Another early start at 8:00am, then off to visit Scott McKenzie, who lives near the iconic Hollywood Sign. We spent a lovely two hours chatting with him before heading to a nearby McDonald’s.
Scott called while we were there, so we swung back to his house to pick him up.
The evening was capped off with a baseball game at Edison Field in Anaheim, watching the Anaheim Angels edge out the Toronto Blue Jays 8-7.
After dropping the kids at the hotel, we took Scott home and enjoyed a quiet, smooth ride back—the roads much calmer at 11:30pm.
Rayls, Amy, and I finally got to the hotel just after midnight.
Saturday 11th August 2001 – Magical Disneyland Day
We called Scott in the morning and made plans to meet again in two weeks.
At 9:30am, we drove a short distance to Disneyland, stopping along the way at a Kmart and a teddy bear store in Anaheim.
Arriving at Disneyland at 11:00am, we spent the day enjoying rides and attractions. Gary and his walking stick were a hit with the younger crowd once again.
The day ended with the spectacular Disneyland parade at 8:00pm.
We left the park at 9:30pm and were back at the hotel by 10:00pm, tired but full of memories.
Cedar City
Sunday 12th August, 2001 — Roadtrip to Scenic Utah
I woke early and spent some quiet time working on my trip diary before we finished packing at 7:00am and hit the road down 91E.
By 8:42am, we reached Barstow, a cool little spot where we fueled up and stretched our legs. From there, Amy kindly let me take the wheel for the drive into Las Vegas — and yes, we made it! Lunch was at Carrows, right opposite the MGM Grand. The heat was intense, easily topping 100°F.
After cruising down The Strip (Amy took back the wheel), we headed north on I-15 at 1:15pm. We briefly left Nevada and passed through Arizona before crossing into Utah, where we paused for a rest stop in St. George.
At 4:55pm Utah time, we arrived in Cedar City—a truly beautiful and scenic part of the world, sitting at about 5,000 feet elevation. Amy’s house overlooks stunning landscapes, a perfect welcome to this peaceful town.
We met Amy’s husband, Steve, unpacked, and ended the day with a delicious barbecue dinner.
Monday 13th August, 2001 — Relaxing and Exploring
Today was a laid-back day—laundry, shopping, and simply relaxing.
Amy and Steve took Rayls and me to Cedar Breaks National Monument, where Steve works as a Park Ranger. The rustic log cabin there was really something special.
A peaceful and quiet day, just what we needed.
Tuesday 14th August, 2001 — Flying Over the Grand Canyon
Steve owns a Cessna 172, and today he took Rayls and Scott for an unforgettable flight over the Grand Canyon, landing later at Kanab.
About half an hour after their arrival, Amy, Daniel, and I drove from Cedar City to Kanab to meet the aviators.
We grabbed lunch at Subway before heading to the Grand Canyon’s North Rim—the quieter, less touristy side. We ate our subs in the visitors’ center parking lot, then explored stunning viewpoints like Point Imperial and Cape Royal before visiting the gift shop and lodge.
Afterwards, Amy, Scott, and Daniel headed back by car, while Steve, Rayls, and I flew back to Cedar City.
We made it home around 8:30pm, tired but thrilled.
Wednesday 15th August, 2001 — Games and Thanksgiving
Mostly a relaxed day. Rayls, Amy, and I checked out a local record store and stopped by Wal-Mart.
We set up a table tennis table in Amy’s garage—this became the battleground for many epic matches over the next few days.
That evening, Amy treated us to a Thanksgiving dinner. Not the real thing, but a generous sample of what the holiday’s about.
We rounded out the night watching TV, enjoying some downtime.
Thursday 16th August 2001 — Salt Lake City & WWF Smackdown
We set out on a 200+ mile drive to Salt Lake City, stopping off in Provo to visit the Quilted Bear store.
By 1:00 pm, we arrived in Salt Lake and explored the city before grabbing lunch at Dee’s.
At 2:00 pm, I and Scott were dropped off at the E Center for a WWF Smackdown event, while Rayls and Amy went shopping.
Scott and I scored great seats just 10 meters from the stage. The show was a blast, with The Rock and Stone Cold Steve Austin putting on an entertaining performance. Wrestling kicked off at 6:00 pm, and by 8:10 pm we called Amy to arrange a pickup.
We hit the road back south on I-15 at 8:25 pm, stopping for Burger King along the way, finally arriving home around 12:45 am.
Friday 17th August, 2001 — A Quiet Day
Today was marked simply as a quiet day—sometimes those are the best.
Gary and Scott’s Adventure
Saturday 18th August, 2001 — Setting Off from Cedar City
Today marked the start of a short but unforgettable adventure for Gary and Scott—one they would reminisce about for years to come.
We all began the day in Cedar City, and at 11:00am, Gary and Scott set out in Steve’s car for nearby St. George. They browsed various stores and enjoyed lunch at Denny’s.
At 4:10pm, the boys caught the St. George shuttle bus heading to Las Vegas. Meanwhile, Rayls, Amy, Katie, and Daniel stayed back in Cedar City for a few relaxing days without the boys.
By 5:10pm Vegas time, the shuttle arrived at the Las Vegas airport. Gary and Scott checked in for American Airlines Flight 1812 to San Jose. After taking the tram to gate D6, they boarded at 6:15pm.
The flight had a bit of a shaky start—after backing out at 6:35pm, a change in wind direction meant taxiing to another runway. Finally, at 6:55pm, the plane took off with a noisy, bumpy ascent. After climbing to 31,000 feet within 15 minutes, they began descending 15 minutes later, landing at 7:52pm. The flight lasted just 57 minutes—definitely preferable to a 14-hour Pacific crossing.
With only hand luggage, they walked off the plane and caught a taxi—driven by an Afghanistani driver, “just like home,” Gary joked. They reached the Days Inn on 4th Street, and with no nearby restaurants, ordered pizza for dinner.
Sunday 19th August 2001 — Exploring San Jose
At 10:30 am, I and Scott caught the light rail from Gish to Santa Clara (four stations). We wandered around San Jose, spotting numerous shark statues scattered throughout the city.
We made our way to the arena for a quick look, then returned to the city center, checked out Walden Books, and had lunch.
At 4:00 pm, we headed back to the arena for WWF SummerSlam 2001. Only Scott went inside—I wasn’t keen on the $100 ticket price. While Scott enjoyed the event, I watched planes land nearby (the runway was very close).
Outside the arena, I was approached multiple times—people asked if I had tickets to sell or wanted to buy some. I also chatted with the arena’s lighting engineer.
The event wrapped up around 8:00 pm. We walked back into the city and caught the light rail back to Gish. Dinner was at Denny’s, though the service left much to be desired. We then walked back to the hotel to rest.
Monday 20th August 2001 — The Long Road
This would be a very long day.
Though homesick for Cedar City, I and Scott were enjoying our adventure.
At 8:50 am, we called a taxi to the hotel and headed to National Car Rental at San Jose Airport. We rented a Pontiac; the lady behind the counter was amused, asking which part of the UK Western Australia was in!
Navigating out of the car park and airport traffic was challenging, but soon we hit the freeway toward San Francisco.
Under strict instructions from Rayls, I didn’t actually enter San Francisco proper—although we did cross the iconic Golden Gate Bridge. The weather was overcast, rainy, and cold. To soothe the sting of not fully exploring the city, I bought two San Francisco jackets—one for myself and one for Rayls.
Next was I-80 for a drive to Sacramento. We went straight to the Arco Arena for that evening’s wrestling event. I bought a ticket, and we then checked out a nearby shopping center.
While out and about, we called Rayls and also phoned British Airways to change our flights from the US to London—we had decided to extend our time in America.
After visiting Wal-Mart and a few shops, we returned to Arco Arena for the event. Our original seats were disappointing, so we moved to a better spot. The wrestling show was entertaining, featuring a memorable moment when Kurt Angle arrived in a milk truck, spraying Stone Cold and others with milk.
The event ended around 8:00 pm, and we began the long drive back to Cedar City.
We passed through Sacramento (California’s capital) and then took Highway 50—a dark, sometimes treacherous route. The descent into West Lake Tahoe was particularly challenging, leaving my arms sore from the strain.
At a gas station at the bottom of the mountain, we shared our concerns with the attendant. Crossing into Nevada, the landscape changed immediately, with Lake Tahoe becoming a hub for casinos.
We kept driving across Nevada, unsure where we would stay for the night. Refueling in Carson City, the server struck up a conversation about Australian football—and naturally, the Essendon team came up!
We rotated drivers regularly. At one point, I pulled over, exhausted but determined to make it back to Cedar City.
Tuesday 21st August, 2001 — Homeward Bound
That night, we drove across the sparse Nevada countryside, punctuated by occasional mountain ranges.
As dawn broke entering Utah, we remained cautious for deer on the road.
After an 11-hour straight drive, including a time zone change, we arrived back in Cedar City around 8:30 am.
Amy met us at the airport after we returned our rental car, and we headed back to her house, where we promptly collapsed.
The rest of the day was very quiet, filled mostly with much-needed sleep.
Cedar City — Wednesday 22nd to Friday 24th August, 2001
A few quiet days in Cedar City, with little recorded in the diary. One special note, penned by Amy herself, reads: “Had a great day with Amy, what a good person!!” — a sentiment no one could argue with.
Saturday 25th August, 2001
A relaxed day spent connecting with family and friends. Rayls and Amy went shopping, while Scott and I played table tennis.
After lunch, everyone joined in for more table tennis before spending a quiet afternoon together.
In the evening, we tried our hand at archery on a school oval, with Scott and I also kicking around a soccer ball.
The day wrapped up simply with dinner from Arby’s.
Sunday 26th August, 2001
Amy, Rayls, and I took a trip to Zion National Park, about an hour’s drive from Cedar City. Scott opted to relax at home.
At Zion, we visited the Visitor Centre before catching the shuttle bus to the last stop. There, we enjoyed a fantastic walk along a path nestled between two towering mountain peaks, alongside a gentle stream — a truly lovely setting.
After the walk, we returned by shuttle to The Lodge for ice cream, drinks, and cookies, and explored the gift shop.
On the journey back to Cedar City, we stopped at a ceramic shop and another gift store, arriving home at 3:10pm for a quiet afternoon and evening.
Monday 27th August, 2001
Rayls and Steve started the day with a scenic flight over Zion National Park, Bryce Canyon, Brian Head, and Cedar Breaks, spotting a lava flow estimated to be 10,000 years old. They returned to Cedar City airport by 10:00am.
Later that morning, I, Rayls, Steve, and Amy visited Daniel’s school, where I spoke to students about Australia. Scott joined us for lunch at Market Grill.
In the afternoon, Rayls went shopping and got a haircut, while Scott and I helped Steve assemble a trailer and played table tennis. I cooked a roast chicken dinner to end the day.
Tuesday 28th August, 2001
A quiet day.
In the evening, Amy, Steve, Rayls, and I dined at Wingers before catching the movie Rat Race at Cinema 8.
Afterward, we chatted with Ryan in Perth while I worked on websites.
Wednesday 29th August, 2001
I spent much of the morning working on websites while Rayls did laundry and made a pavlova.
At noon, Amy, Rayls, Scott, and I met Steve for lunch at Hogi Yogi.
The afternoon was relaxed — Scott and I played table tennis while Rayls and Amy went shopping at Victoria’s Secret, a teddy bear shop, and Wal-Mart.
I went online to book accommodation in London, securing a room at South Ealing Guesthouse.
At 4:00pm, Amy, Scott, and I played tennis at a university court.
Dinner was bacon, eggs, and pavlova, followed by some TV time.
Thursday 30th August, 2001
At 9:00am, Amy, Rayls, Scott, and I drove to St. George, where temperatures soared above 105°F.
While Rayls checked out Sears, JC Penney, Dillards, and Hallmark, Scott and I played mini golf and visited a batting cage—Scott held his own, but I struggled with the slower pitches.
At noon, we regrouped for lunch—Rayls at Arby’s, and Scott and I at Fazoli’s Italian Food, enjoying meatball subs.
After lunch, we visited Holland House for antiques and bears before heading back to Cedar City at 1:10pm.
The afternoon was quiet, and for dinner, we all went to Rusty’s. That evening, I worked on websites.
Friday 31st August, 2001 — Last Full Day in Cedar City
Steve left for training, and we said our goodbyes.
We visited the post office to mail several packages home, then had lunch—Burger King for most of us, and McDonald’s for Scott.
At 2:00pm, Scott went to see Jay and Silent Bob Strike Back, released that day in the US. I stayed home, and Rayls went shopping at Wal-Mart, K-Mart, and Albertsons.
The afternoon was restful.
At 7:00pm, everyone (minus Steve) met for dinner at Hermie’s, a 1960s-style diner.
Later, we attended the second half of a Cedar City High School football game—the real American experience, complete with a marching band, cheerleaders, and about 500 spectators (250 more than typical back home).
We returned home around 9:45pm.
Saturday 1st September, 2001 — Back to Los Angeles
A very emotional day, especially for Scott and me. Our time in Cedar City had been so relaxing, filled with fun and laughter, it was hard to say goodbye.
We were up early at 6:00am to finish packing. Ryan called for a quick 10-minute chat—a comforting moment before leaving.
At 7:10am, Amy, Katie, Daniel, Rayls, Scott, and I departed Cedar City, driving through still-hot St. George and Mesquite. We stopped in Glendale to buy some parking signs.
By 9:20am (Vegas time), we arrived at Las Vegas Airport and headed to Southwest Airlines check-in, then took the light rail to Terminal C. We grabbed some food while waiting for the flight. Saying farewell was very emotional. Amy and her family had been incredibly kind, and none of us wanted to leave.
At 11:02am, we boarded Boeing 737-300 Flight 2208 at gate C21. We backed out at 11:16am and took off at 11:25am. By 11:36am, we were cruising at 28,000 feet, 160 miles from LAX. The descent began at 11:46am, and we landed at 12:04pm—a quick 39-minute flight.
With 11 bags in tow, we caught the Avis shuttle bus. Though the line at Avis was long, the service was good—Isela helped us rent a Pontiac Grand Am for $31 per day for two days. During loading, my trusty walking stick was misplaced and sadly never seen again.
We drove along the 405 to Santa Monica Boulevard. Somehow, we lost our way briefly but found our hotel at 777 Vine Street in Hollywood, though the service there was disappointing.
After settling in, we called Scott McKenzie and arranged to meet him tomorrow after lunch. We then drove to the Hollywood Sign for photos before heading back into Hollywood. Lunch was at In-N-Out Burgers on Sunset Boulevard, followed by a stroll up Orange to Hollywood Boulevard. We checked out the Walk of Fame and Mann’s Chinese Theater, spotting impersonators of Crocodile Dundee, Batman, Wonder Woman, and Elvis.
Scott received a Dallas Cowboys cap as a gift, and Rayls picked out a teddy bear. Back at the hotel, I crossed the street for a Subway sandwich, where the owner mentioned a friend in Perth.
We spoke with Ryan in Perth and Amy, who was back in Cedar City. Everyone was tired and emotional after a long day and the bittersweet departure from Amy and Cedar City.
Sunday 2nd September, 2001 — Last Day in the USA
By 8:30am, we were packed and on the road.
We drove down Santa Monica Boulevard to Rodeo Drive and explored Beverly Hills. Next, we cruised along Santa Monica to the Pacific Ocean, visiting Palisades Beach and continuing north to Malibu. I made the effort to climb down some rocks to touch the ocean and collected three small stones.
Passing Santa Monica Beach and the amusement pier, we stopped inland at a fabric store for Rayls. The mood was somber—our last day in the US was bittersweet.
We then visited Century City to browse Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s, and Card Fever, where Rayls bought a purple top. Lunch was at McDonald’s near Scott McKenzie’s house.
At 2:00pm, we arrived at Scott’s home for a pleasant visit. Scott signed the teddy bear we had bought at Tysons Corner earlier in the trip.
At 3:45pm, we said goodbye to Scott and planned to visit nearby Dodger Stadium. However, heavy traffic due to a game made us reroute to the Greek Theatre. Scott climbed to the top of the hill for photos, followed by an adventurous slide down.
We took highways 101, 110, 10, and 405 to return the Avis car at LAX and boarded the shuttle bus to the airport. At 6:00pm, we faced long lines but managed to check out some shops and grab McDonald’s before security.
We exchanged $43 US for £25 UK. Our flight, British Airways BA268, boarded at 8:20pm and took off at 8:45pm, marking the end of our USA journey.
Sunday 2nd September to Monday 3rd September, 2001 — Flight to London
Our flight from Los Angeles to London was British Airways Flight BA268 aboard a Boeing 747-400. Captain Roger Andrews provided the flight plan: we would fly just east of Las Vegas (parachutes ready!), then north over the Great Lakes, across Hudson Bay, south of Greenland and Iceland, with landfall near Glasgow, followed by final descent over Manchester.
We boarded at 8:20pm, pushed back at 8:32pm, and took off at 8:45pm. The flight would cover 5,414 miles and take approximately 9½ hours.
Flight details:
9:00pm (LA time): just south of Palm Springs, with a clear view of the full moon.
9:07pm: 5,356 miles to go.
9:10pm: cruising at 33,000 feet, speed 988 km/h.
9:24pm: just east of Las Vegas.
9:25pm: 33,000 feet, speed 950 km/h.
9:35pm: flying near Cedar City (not shown on the flight map), passed just south of Richfield.
10:30pm: just south of Casper, Wyoming. Time to rest and sleep.
3:00am (LA time): just south of Gotthab, Greenland. Approaching Iceland, the plane made a right turn.
5:15am (LA time) / 1:15pm (London time): cruising at 37,000 feet, speed 634 mph (1,022 km/h), with 55 minutes and 493 miles to arrival.
1:20pm (London time): just south of Skye Island and the Hebrides.
1:30pm: just south of Glasgow, approaching Prestwick at 37,000 feet, 603 mph (1,100 km/h), 44 minutes to arrival.
1:42pm: just south of Lake District Park, 34 minutes to destination, 383 kilometres away.
1:45pm: just slightly north of Blackpool.
1:48pm: southwest of Manchester.
1:52pm: Captain announced the start of descent into London Heathrow.
1:54pm: slightly east of Birmingham, 28,000 feet, speed 816 km/h, 104 miles to go.
1:58pm: just west of Coventry at 22,000 feet.
2:04pm: just east of Oxford, turning toward London.
2:06pm: 26 miles to go.
2:20pm: landed safely.
2:24pm: held for 7 minutes waiting for a docking bay.
2:42pm: docked at the gate.
2:50pm: off the plane and through immigration after about a 20-minute line. Bags arrived within 5 minutes with no issues.
Monday 3rd September, 2001 — Arrival in London
We caught a taxi from Heathrow to the South Ealing Guest House. What a disappointment — the place was a dive. None of us wanted to stay there. We dropped off our bags and headed straight for the train.
England felt so different from the USA. People in the US are friendly; here, they mostly ignore you. We felt quite homesick for the USA.
We got off the train at Piccadilly Circus, then made our way to Trafalgar Square. From there, we took the Tube to the London Palladium and saw The King and I playing — just like back in 1980.
Next, we took the Tube to the Tower of London, walked across Tower Bridge, and returned via London Bridge.
Not wanting to go back to the guest house, we wandered and talked late into the night. Eventually, we caught the train back to South Ealing, arriving at 1:20am, doing our best to make the most of it.
Tuesday 4th September, 2001 — Exploring London and Flight Changes
Today we split up for a while. Rayls headed to Knightsbridge to visit Harrods, while Scott and I went back to Heathrow Terminal 1 to inquire about changing flights and check in baggage.
At Harrods, Rayls bought several gifts: a Christmas decoration, a Harrods teddy bear backpack, chocolate chip cookies, a Christmas bear, and a “Bobby Bear” by Peter Fagan.
By 11:15am, Scott and I left the airport and took the train to Knightsbridge. At 11:50am, we all reunited and toured Harrods together. I wasn’t feeling well and definitely got my money’s worth from the pound it cost to use Harrods’ toilet!
From there, we caught the Tube to St. James’s Park and visited New Scotland Yard. We then walked to Buckingham Palace and through Green Park to Green Park Station. After that, we took the Tube to Bond Street and visited Debenhams, where we had lunch at Pizza Hut. Scott bought an Arsenal T-shirt.
Next, we visited St. John’s Wood to see Lord’s Cricket Ground, the home of cricket. Despite a game between Norfolk and Devon being in progress, we were allowed in and watched the last five wickets fall and part of the presentations. Sharing a deep love of cricket, it was an honor to be there.
Later, we took the Tube to Arsenal Stadium, Highbury. We spoke with a security guard who gave us contact details for arranging a tour — Scott was thrilled.
At 7:00pm, we took the Tube back to Heathrow Terminal 4. By 7:50pm, we visited the British Airways counter to change our flights, now scheduled to fly to Holland tomorrow afternoon.
We looked for food at the airport but had little luck, so we took the Tube to Terminal 1-2-3 and finally found an open café. We enjoyed sandwiches, minestrone soup, and chatted with people from Sunderland.
By 11:15pm, we caught the Tube back to South Ealing and once again made the best of our accommodations.
Wednesday 5th September, 2001 — A Day of London Highlights
London is interesting and vibrant, but we just didn’t want to be here. We were all tired and ready for home—or better yet, Cedar City, Utah. Still, we made the most of the day and achieved some lifelong dreams.
Up at 6:00am, we packed our 13 bags and carried them to South Ealing Station — quite the workout! We caught the Tube to Heathrow Terminal 4 and arrived at 7:45am to check our bags in — a huge relief.
We had breakfast at Café Italia, with bacon and eggs. Scott played Virtual Striker at an arcade nearby. I called Ian Cook at Arsenal Football Club about arranging a tour. We scheduled an 11:00am tour and took the Piccadilly Line Tube, arriving at Arsenal Station at 10:05am. We checked out the Gunners Shop, where Scott bought a shirt, jacket, and DVD.
The tour of Highbury started at 11:00am with Ian Cook. We saw the changing rooms, trophy cabinet, stands, press room, players’ tunnel, and the ground-level manager and substitute areas. It was a great thrill for Scott, and we were thankful for Ian’s kindness.
At 11:40am, we took the Tube to Knightsbridge and returned to Harrods. Lunch was at McDonald’s — very busy, and we only found seats downstairs near the toilets, which were a bit smelly.
Back to St. John’s Wood and Lord’s by 1:30pm. We paid for the official tour and visited the museum, seeing The Ashes trophies. Rayls bought three ceramic cricket teddy bears from the Middlesex County Cricket Shop.
The tour began at 2:00pm, visiting the Long Room, visitors’ changing rooms (with rich history), committee room, museum, and media center. Afterwards, we lingered chatting — time seemed to slow, and I realized my watch had stopped.
At 3:55pm, we hurried to catch the Tube to Heathrow Terminal 4, arriving at 5:00pm with plenty of time before our 5:50pm flight to Amsterdam. Our flight was delayed, so there was no rush. Scott played more Virtual Striker while we shopped a little.
After security, we explored Duty Free. Rayls bought a T-shirt, two carry bags, magnets, and pens from Harrods’ airport store. We sat at gate 15 and waited to board. The flight was full of Dutch passengers, which made me a bit reflective on childhood memories and family disagreements.
Finally, we boarded at 6:20pm. Captain Geoff Mall explained the delay was due to restricted runways at Schiphol Airport, requiring longer spacing between planes. The crew had just arrived from Schiphol after a 90-minute delay. We pushed back at 6:48pm and took off at 7:04pm. London was behind us — we wondered if we’d return in a better frame of mind.
Friday 7th September, 2001 — Family History and Sightseeing
We had breakfast at 8:00am, and Arjen picked us up at 9:55am.
From Alkmaar, we drove along the A7 dyke, stopping for petrol and admiring the view of the North Sea.
We continued to Hindeloopen, where my forebears had come from in the 1600s. I had visited in 1987 with my parents and was keen to show Rayls and Scott. At 11:20am, we visited a church and saw my great-great-great-grandfather Douwe Hartman’s name on an old chandelier. Douwe had helped build the church in the late 1600s.
We explored the shops in Hindeloopen, famous for their decorative folk art.
Next, we drove to Wezep and the Isselvleidt estate, where my father spent time as a youth in the 1920s and in his last years in the early 1990s.
At 2:00pm, we had lunch at a pleasant snack bar in Wezep. Then we searched for my father’s grave. Although Arjen had attended the funeral in 1995, we initially went to the wrong cemetery. The correct cemetery in Wezep city center was found at 3:00pm, where we stayed only briefly.
Afterwards, we went to the Noord Hilversum graveyard and located the graves of my paternal grandparents. My maternal grandparents’ graves had been removed some years earlier.
Then we went to Baarn in search of the Christopher Pulman statue. My parents had a photo taken there when they first met in the mid-1930s, and Rayls and I had done so in 1980. Sadly, we couldn’t locate the statue.
At 6:00pm, we stopped at a McDonald’s near Hilversum and then drove back to Arjen’s house. We chatted, checked email, and later returned to the hotel.
Saturday 8th September, 2001 — Memories and Preparation for Paris
We had breakfast at 8:30am.
At 10:00am, we drove to Alkmaar’s shops and bought film for the camera.
At 11:30am, we drove to Castricum and located Arjen’s property on Stetweg — where Rayls and I had spent many nights on our 1980 trip. The large house was built for groups of up to 60 people. We fondly remembered having the enormous house to ourselves, the room we slept in, and the kitchen with its enormous pots used to cook for large groups, even though we wanted to cook just two potatoes.
Arjen’s father (my uncle) had owned the property then, but now Arjen runs the Hindeloopen Travel group holiday business from this location. It was great to see it all again after 21 years.
At 1:00pm, we returned to the hotel and had toasted sandwiches for lunch.
At 3:30pm, Arjen picked us up to visit a travel agent in search of Paris accommodation. No luck, so we decided to find a place when we arrive in Paris — silly us!
By 5:00pm, we were back at the hotel. We talked with Ryan on the phone, watched soccer on TV, and relaxed.
We managed to find the McDonald’s for dinner this time — I missed Denny’s.
At 9:15pm, back at the hotel, we packed for tomorrow’s departure for Paris. Later, Scott and I made a daring trip to a service station to refuel the car and buy chocolates and drinks.
I noted that chocolate in the USA is poor, so it was nice to get more Aussie-style chocolates here in Holland.
Sunday 9th September, 2001 — Arrival and Hotel Hunt in Paris
We were up at 7:30 am to finish packing and have breakfast. After paying the bill, we checked out of the hotel.
At 9:15 am, we were downstairs ready, and at 9:30 am Arjen arrived to take us back to Schiphol Airport.
At Schiphol, we collected our Avis rental car, loaded our bags, and said our goodbyes to Arjen, who had been incredibly helpful over the past few days.
By 10:25 am, we were on the road for Paris, driving through Belgium and bypassing Antwerp and Brussels before entering France. We stopped at Charles de Gaulle Airport, where all eight airport hotels were fully booked.
At 3:30 pm, traffic was heavy as we entered the airport. We witnessed a suspicious bag being removed and blown up by authorities before traffic was allowed to move on.
After searching around the airport with no luck—it seemed two major world conferences were limiting accommodation—we reluctantly drove into central Paris. At 11:30 pm, we finally found the Hotel Village, which had one room available.
Exhausted and stressed, we were ready for bed. Navigating a narrow circular ramp five floors underground to park the car was a real test. Once in the room, we took the elevator up and collapsed into bed.
Tuesday 11th September, 2001 — A Day to Remember
We were up at 8:00 am, ready for what would become a long and fateful day. Although our flight wasn’t until midnight, we had to check out and return the Avis rental car at the airport. With 13 suitcases, Gary stayed with the bags while the others considered exploring Paris, but the group ultimately decided to spend the day together at the airport.
At 10:00 am, we had breakfast at McDonald’s and settled by a window seat, staying there until 7:00 pm. We played cards and chatted with a couple from Sydney — a Qantas flight attendant and a NSW policeman.
At 1:15 pm, Gary and Scott ventured out for food and entered a restaurant where people were glued to CNN, watching the terrorist attacks unfold in New York City. Gary called Ryan in Perth and Amy in Cedar City; she was deeply shaken.
We had pizza for dinner and spent the rest of the day watching the news, playing cards, and talking. The shock was profound — we had just been in New York a few weeks earlier.
At 7:10 pm, we lined up for check-in, and by 9:45 pm, we were the first to check in — all upgraded to Business Class, a wonderful surprise. Security was intense, especially at Satellite 5.
At 11:25 pm, we boarded, enjoying the front five seats to ourselves, complete with hot towels and orange juice. Cabin doors closed at 12:04 am, Captain Collins in command. We taxied at 12:13 am, held for takeoff at 12:25 am, and departed at 12:33 am, the Eiffel Tower glowing behind us.
At 1:06 am, cruising at 29,000 feet, First Officer Andrew Percival advised we’d land at 6:00 pm Singapore time. It was a pleasant flight, though much of it was spent sleeping.
Wednesday 12th September, 2001 — Arrival in Singapore
We began our descent into Singapore at 6:05 pm and landed at 6:34 pm. From the air, we saw winding rivers and plenty of water as we approached.
While waiting for our luggage, we learned that our flight path had been altered — we had flown over Russia instead of Afghanistan due to the recent events.
Though the diary notes end here, we remember taking a shuttle bus directly to our hotel, which was very nice — the best of the trip. We spent the evening watching TV to catch up on the aftermath of 9/11, having been out of touch for roughly 15 hours.
Thursday 13th September, 2001 — Exploring Singapore and Journey Home
After a lovely hotel breakfast, we spent the day exploring Singapore and doing some shopping.
In the mid-afternoon, we returned to the hotel to collect our stored bags and then took the shuttle bus to the airport.
Our Qantas flight to Perth departed around 9:00 pm. Unfortunately, it was the worst flight of the trip, with very poor service.
We landed in Perth around 1:00 am on Friday, 14th September — just missing Ryan’s 22nd birthday by a few hours. At customs, we experienced a minor delay after forgetting to declare a cricket bat Gary had brought.
Finally, we reunited with Ryan and returned home to our puppy, Hunter. It felt wonderful to be home — we were already looking forward to another trip to the USA but were happy to be back.
