Hartman Travels - Europe 2015
14th March 2015 — Off We Go Again
Here we go again! The countdown clock is close to zero and today we head off to Brussels via Abu Dhabi.
Firstly, our very best wishes to my sister Cath. She’s unwell and we saw her yesterday — it was sad saying goodbye. We’ll see her again in four weeks and hope she follows along with our travels. We’re thinking of her often. And best wishes too to her husband Chris, who’s doing all he can to keep her comfortable.
Our bags are packed and we’re ready to go. The house is as spick and span as it’s been in years. Scott and Shannon will be staying till Thursday, then they head off to the USA. After that, a lovely lady will be house-sitting and looking after Hunter, our soon-to-be 14-year-old Jack Russell. Hopefully she’s happy to let him follow her everywhere, sleep on the bed, and generally take over the house.
So, for those of you interested — and I’m always surprised at how many that is — I’ll do my best to entertain you for the next few weeks as we wander around Europe. There’s a million things to see and do, but we have a specific plan and we’re happy with it.
Weather in Brussels looks to be about 8°C on Sunday, warming up to the mid-teens during the week. Sounds nice. Of course, we’ve just survived another long, hot Perth summer — and we leave just as there’s rain and possible storms. Should make for an interesting takeoff!
The Flight – Etihad A330 ready for takeoff
Scott and Shannon dropped us at the airport around 1:40pm. Good call lining up at the Etihad counter — not the Emirates line! Check-in was smooth and immigration/security was a breeze. Perth Airport is in the middle of a major redevelopment but it wasn’t too bad.
Etihad boarded early, about 50 minutes before departure. We pushed back a couple of minutes early and took off smoothly, heading west. There’s internet on the flight — great to stay connected (for those of us who care!).
At 9:15pm, we were approaching halfway. Due to Cyclone Olwyn, our flight path was much further south than normal — usually it skims the bottom of Sri Lanka and India
The Flight – Etihad A330 ready for takeoff
Scott and Shannon dropped us at the airport around 1:40pm. Good call lining up at the Etihad counter — not the Emirates line! Check-in was smooth and immigration/security was a breeze. Perth Airport is in the middle of a major redevelopment but it wasn’t too bad.
Etihad boarded early, about 50 minutes before departure. We pushed back a couple of minutes early and took off smoothly, heading west. There’s internet on the flight — great to stay connected (for those of us who care!).
At 9:15pm, we were approaching halfway. Due to Cyclone Olwyn, our flight path was much further south than normal — usually it skims the bottom of Sri Lanka and India.
Halfway marker — the little blue dot is us
Abu Dhabi Arrival
We started descending around 1:35am Perth time and landed about 2:15am. Smooth flight overall, service was good. A little warm in the cabin for me, but Rayls and Ryan were both rugged up.
We landed 22 minutes early but had a long taxi. You’d think they’d build the runway a bit closer to the airport!
It was still dark when we landed so not much to see. We had to take a bus to the terminal. Lots of construction going on. Terminal was modern, with a nice mosaic dome roof.
So now we’re under the dome waiting for our next flight… is all this worth it? (Yes.)
Abu Dhabi to Brussels
Flight path across the Persian Gulf
Boarding was a bit chaotic. You go through another round of security into a holding area with two gates — one for an Air Seychelles flight, the other for ours.
The guy watching the X-ray machine seemed more interested in chatting than watching bags. Pretty lax.
We were all so tired by boarding time that we nodded off before takeoff. I barely remember us leaving the ground. Missed the light meal while I dozed — now I’ve got to wait till breakfast.
This flight’s just under 7 hours — feels short when you’re used to Perth distances.
By 11:30am Perth time, we were somewhere over Romania after crossing the Black Sea. Breakfast was served, and we were just a couple of hours out of Brussels.
We crossed into Hungary, Slovakia, and the Czech Republic — looked like we flew right over Prague. Then into Germany and finally Belgium. Still dark outside at 5am.
15th March – Brussels Arrival and Drive to Hilversum
Landed in Brussels around 6:45am. Immigration was a breeze, bags were quick, and by 7:30am we were at the rental car counter.
Picked up a Peugeot 308 diesel wagon — fits all the luggage, so no complaints.
We told our friend Viviane we’d be at her place around 10am, but we were early — tried to stop at Maccas to kill time, but it didn’t open until 11. Seriously?
Viviane lives halfway between Brussels and Antwerp. Lovely unit with a great park view. Her husband is unwell and in hospital. I met Viviane through my Scott McKenzie website — she visited us back in 1998. Had a lovely early lunch with her.
Around 11am we headed north to the Netherlands and my mum’s hometown: Hilversum. We were early for check-in, so we visited my grandparents’ grave at Hilversum cemetery.
Last week Ryan and I watched a video of my dad and me visiting the cemetery in 1987, so we knew exactly where to go. We walked right to the spot — but sadly the graves were gone. I assume the upkeep wasn’t maintained and they were removed.
We also visited the house where my parents lived during WWII. Quite moving.
At 2pm we arrived at our AirBnB — nice little unit in the heart of Hilversum. After settling in, we wandered into town. Cold and overcast. Centre of Hilversum is pedestrian- and bike-only. Very quiet, not much open — no restaurants, so it was back to Maccas.
Back at the unit by 5:30pm. I lay on the bed while Rayls showered — next thing I knew it was 1am!
Long day. Good to be in Holland.
16th March – Amsterdam
We caught the train from Hilversum to Amsterdam today after a much-needed good night’s sleep. The station was just a 10-minute walk away, and return tickets cost €11 each (around $15). The weather was kinder—about 14°C and dry—pleasant for exploring. People say this isn’t the best time of year to visit, but we don’t mind the cooler weather, and I suspect summer would be far more crowded.
We’d arranged to meet my cousin Arjen at De Bijenkorf, a big department store on Dam Square. Arriving early, we browsed a little—Rayls bought some face cloths—before Arjen joined us. He and I first met in 1980 when he was 16, again in 1987, and then he visited us in Australia in 1996. He also looked after us on our 2001 trip, driving us all over the place. He’s outgoing and loud—quite the opposite of me—but we always get along. We spent an hour catching up in the fifth-floor café, with plenty of laughs.
After Arjen left, we wandered through the shops. A quilt shop on Nieuwendijkstraat was closed, to Rayls’ disappointment, but we continued across Dam Square into Kalverstraat, a long shopping street ending at Munttoren Tower. While Rayls browsed a Delft store, Ryan and I ducked into McDonald’s. A nearby guitar shop, Dirk Witte, kept Ryan happily occupied for half an hour.
From there, we strolled along cobblestone streets and canals to the Raampoort police building, where my grandfather once served in the early 1900s. On the way, we stopped at a ukulele shop and chatted with the owners—she from Florida, disillusioned with the U.S. healthcare system, and he from Liverpool, with a striking resemblance to Ringo Starr. The Raampoort is no longer a station, but standing there felt like touching a piece of family history.
We carried on past the Anne Frank House (queues stretching out the door) before circling back to Centraal Station for a one-hour canal cruise. It was fun and informative—especially when a massive ship loomed across the harbour. Everyone seemed calm, though I couldn’t imagine how it would stop! Unlike my Manhattan cruise years ago, I managed to stay awake for the whole ride.
Back on the train to Hilversum, we grabbed some dinner at McDonald’s before the slow walk to our apartment. Rayls and I were sore and exhausted by day’s end, but it was a great day—just a taste of Amsterdam, but enough to leave us wanting more.
17th March 2015 — From Graves to Windmills to Music
Today was a big day — we set ourselves a list of four things to achieve, and I’m pleased to say we managed to do them all!
First stop: Wezep, a small town with great meaning to me. We visited the cemetery there where my father is buried. Nearby is the Ijsselvleidt Estate, where he spent the last six years of his life. It was quite moving to stand there and reflect.
From there, we drove north to Hindeloopen, a historic town on the IJsselmeer. This is where my ancestors came from — all the way back in the 1600s. One of my many-times-great-grandfathers even helped build the church that still stands there today. It’s a special feeling to walk the same streets your family walked hundreds of years ago.
Next, we headed west to the Zaanse Schans, a picturesque area just north of Amsterdam. It’s known for its beautifully preserved windmills and traditional Dutch houses. Very scenic, very Dutch — it really feels like a step back in time.
And finally, in the late afternoon, we made our way into the Amsterdam suburb of Amstelveen to visit my cousin Tooske and her husband Peter. I hadn’t seen Tooske since 1987, and Rayls hadn’t seen her since 1980 — but it felt like no time had passed. We had a lovely dinner and long chat. Tooske is a renowned pianist, and she treated us to a few of her own compositions on the piano. What a wonderful way to end the day.
We rolled back into Hilversum just before midnight — tired but happy. What a full and meaningful day it was.
18th March – To Germany
We were up early for the long trek from Hilversum to Berlin – a solid 600 kilometres.
The roads were excellent, and once we hit the Autobahn, it was go-time. Most of the way there are no speed limits. At one point Ryan hit 172 kph, which I grumbled about… but then later, while everyone else was asleep, I crept it up to 180 kph myself. Much of the time I sat on 155 kph, just keeping with the flow!
19th March – Berlin
A big day exploring Berlin.
Ryan rang my brother-in-law Chris to check in on my sister Cath, who’s sadly back in the hospice. Love and best wishes to her and Chris — they’re in our thoughts every day.
We started the day at Tauentzienstraße, doing a bit of shopping. We were a little early for the Uniqlo store opening, so we stopped in at Dunkin’ Donuts for breakfast (not the best, but passable). Uniqlo had been recommended by Rayls’ sister Pat for their ultra-light down jackets — ideal for travel. So, naturally, we each got one.
Ryan walked a kilometre to a nearby music store while Rayls and I pottered around. Then we drove to Frau Tulip, a “quilt shop” in Veteranenstraße — bit of a bust. More heavy linens than quilting gear. Only two jelly rolls in the entire shop. Shocking!
Back to the apartment by 2:30pm and a short rest. Then we hit the U-Bahn from Platz der Luftbrücke to Französische Straße, and walked about a kilometre to the Brandenburg Gate — one of Berlin’s most iconic landmarks. Amazing to finally be here.
Nearby is the haunting Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe — 2,711 concrete slabs spread across a sloping field. Powerful and sobering. Strangely, it’s also the site of Hitler’s bunker.
Dinner was across the street, sitting outdoors as the sun set. Ryan got into the spirit with a litre of German beer, alongside currywurst and sauerkraut.
Back on the train and home by 7pm. A great day in Berlin
20th March – To Dachau
A long driving day — another 600 K’s, from Berlin to just outside Munich.
Said goodbye to Berlin, a place we really enjoyed. Friendly people, but not as widely English-speaking as in the Netherlands (fair enough — we’re the visitors). Packed up the apartment, dropped the key in the letterbox… and promptly realised we’d forgotten to remove the carpark chain. Luckily, Ryan found a local walking his dog who let us out. Crisis averted!
We’re really enjoying Airbnb — private apartments, local feel, and a bit more personality than hotels.
During the drive, we lost mobile coverage. We did a quick stop at Burger King but no usable internet (had to pay 70 cents just to use the bathroom!). Found out later that Australia beat Pakistan in the cricket — never doubted Shane Watson for a second! 😄
Arrived at Dachau around 2:30pm and visited the Concentration Camp Memorial Site. The main gate, administrative building and some original rail tracks remain. One barracks has been rebuilt to show the grim reality of the camp. Very moving experience.
Our Airbnb in Dachau is brand new — we’re the first guests! But no Wi-Fi, so we ended up doing a McDonalds Wi-Fi run to keep everyone updated.
Dinner was at a real German restaurant — Waldschwaigstüberl. No English spoken at all. It made for a fun, laugh-filled experience. Everyone was friendly, and we all had schnitzel. Couldn’t get much more German than that.
Tomorrow’s plan: Steiff Bears and a reunion with my friend Anka.
21st March – Steiff Bears and Anka
When we first planned this trip, it was just going to be a quick stop in Europe before heading to the USA. We were going to visit WWI sites and catch up with my friend Angelika (aka Anka).
Then Ryan joined the trip, so we added the Netherlands. Then we stretched it to 18 days, and finally ditched the USA altogether. Now it’s a 25-day Euro trip — and I have no regrets. We’re doing the trip our way.
Today we ticked off two more must-dos.
Rayls finally got to visit the Steiff Bear Museum in Giengen an der Brenz. It was a beautifully presented place — great for both kids and adults. She loved it. The gift store was very popular too (for her, not me 😄). Ryan and I found some Wi-Fi and let her enjoy her Steiff experience.
Then it was off to Ginsheim-Gustavsburg, near Mainz, where we caught up with Anka — a longtime friend from my Scott McKenzie website. It was so good to finally meet her after so many years.
A really special day that reminded me why we chose Europe this year.
23rd March – Gîte de la Motte (Lower Normandy)
We left Reims today and drove via Amiens to Cesny-Bois-Halbout, just outside Caen in Lower Normandy.
Rather than face driving through Paris, we chose a longer route via Laon — about 25 km more but actually 15 minutes quicker, according to the GPS. A good decision.
While driving, a hilltop “castle” caught our attention near Laon — turned out to be Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Laon, another stunning example of Gothic architecture from the 12th–13th centuries. Narrow cobblestone streets made it a bit tricky, but Ryan got us there without issue. We wandered Laon’s streets, and stopped for lunch in a lovely bakery café — no English spoken, but we got by with smiles and gestures.
A word about French toll roads — they’re everywhere. Unlike Belgium, the Netherlands, and Germany (where there were none), France makes you pay. Today’s tolls came to about $50 AUD. Sometimes it’s a ticket-then-pay system, other times it’s coin-only or card-only. The roads are great, better than back home, but Germany still wins for quality — and they’re free!
We stopped briefly in Amiens (we’ll return later to visit WWI sites), then pressed on to Cesny-Bois-Halbout — about 474 km in total, top speed 149.64 km/h.
We’re staying at a small farm B&B, fresh eggs for breakfast, lots of animals around. Dinner was groceries from Thury-Harcourt (which we’re pronouncing “Furry”, probably wrongly), cooked up in the farm kitchen.
Still no name for the GPS. Needs to be a European female name we can yell at… nothing agreed on yet. Suggestions welcome!
24th March – Normandy
Long bloody day. Pardon my French!
We headed out to Le Mont-Saint-Michel, the famous island commune in Normandy, about a kilometre off France’s northwest coast. It’s incredibly impressive… and involves about a thousand steps, most of them uphill. Hard work for an old bloke like me.
You park, then catch this double-ended bus across the causeway. The driver doesn’t turn around—he just hops out and walks to the other end of the bus, which becomes the front. Clever idea, and ideal for some drivers I know back home. The ride takes about 8 minutes, then there’s a 400-metre walk. Because of the tide, we had to use the centre entry. From there it’s a narrow alley winding all the way up to the abbey, lined with shops, food stalls, and the obligatory souvenirs.
School groups were everywhere, with teachers stopping mid-alley to give lessons, blocking the way. Nobody seemed to mind—except those of us trying to get through. Eventually you just push on past. After endless steps (more up than down), we reached the abbey (€8 each). Nice building, with great views of the surrounding countryside, and plenty of history. Coming down, the other entrances had reopened, which made things easier.
We stopped for a late breakfast, though the crepe shop was out of crepes—bit of a letdown! The bus ride back was stifling, hotter than a Perth bus that’s been baking in 40-degree sun. Uncomfortable doesn’t even begin to cover it. Glad we did Le Mont-Saint-Michel, but once is enough.
We tried to surprise Rayls with a quilt shop, but everything shuts for a long lunch break. No luck there.
In the afternoon we visited both Utah and Omaha beaches, two of the five D-Day landing sites. Utah was the westernmost, while Omaha linked up with the British beaches further east. A lot of history here, and a real honour to stand on that ground.
From there we drove to Caen, parked, and set out looking for food. But nothing opens until 7pm! I know the French have their customs, but jeez, when you’re hungry it’s frustrating. We walked a mile to a restaurant that looked good, only to find it closed too. Tried to buy tram tickets for the ride back but couldn’t figure it out. In the end I just pushed onto the tram as the doors were closing—nearly leaving Rayls and Ryan behind. They managed to squeeze on too. So, one free (and technically illegal) mile-long trip back.
All in all, I’m not a huge fan of France. The people are friendly enough, but some of their ideas—well, they might work for them, but they seem pretty strange (and sometimes stupid) to me.
25th March – Caen to Paris
Well… I wish I could give you great news. But the truth is… I’m in Paris. Still not my favourite place in the world.
We left Caen and drove through Rouen, another beautiful city with — yes — another cathedral. Very picturesque.
Today’s stats: 311 km, average speed 93 km/h, max 142 km/h. We parked the car north of Paris, near Charles de Gaulle Airport, to avoid the madness of city driving. Still got stung four times with tolls — about $30 AUD total.
Arriving at the airport hotel around 3pm, we then caught the train into central Paris. A return ticket for three was €80, around $110 AUD. Ouch.
I just don’t see the magic in Paris. It’s crowded, dirty, and a total headache to get around. We visited the Eiffel Tower, then caught a taxi to the Arc de Triomphe, followed by a walk down the Champs-Élysées. It’s all just so tiring. We’re here for Ryan, and he seemed happy — so that’s good enough for me.
In all my years of driving buses and working as a cop, I can say one thing: I wouldn’t do either in Paris. The traffic is chaos. Paris vs. New York? I’d take New York in a heartbeat. At least New York has blocks. Paris is a web of confusing roads.
That Arc de Triomphe roundabout is pure madness. I still don’t know how people actually get to the monument — surely there’s an underground passage, because no sane person would cross that road.
Back to CDG around 7:30pm and dinner at the hotel’s Italian restaurant.
Still no name for the GPS. We might have to make it a male voice — easier to yell at. Laurent, maybe? Open to ideas — as long as I can shout it in frustration without feeling bad!
26th March – Paris to London
Today we caught a train from Charles De Gaulle Airport to Paris Gare du Nord, then hopped on the Eurostar for the trip to London. This high-speed train connects Paris and London via the Channel Tunnel.
The journey was about 2 hours 47 minutes, covering 478 km. The train hit a top speed of nearly 300 kph with an average around 234 kph — fastest I’ve been on land!
27th March – London
Wow, what a long day! We got back to our room just after 7pm, completely wiped out.
I’m lucky to have a good mate named Glen — a fellow Perth bus driver who knows London inside out. Following his directions helped us find our way easily.
Rayls was a bit cranky about my negative Paris comments, but I was pleasantly surprised by London. Apart from the walking — tough on the knees — I really enjoyed today.
We took the Jubilee Line tube to St John’s Wood and wandered down to Abbey Road for the classic Beatles album cover photo at the crossing. Traffic there must be nuts with everyone constantly posing for photos!
Next stop was Lord’s Cricket Ground for a tour and museum visit — heaven for us cricket nuts. Our guide Steven Murray was excellent.
From there, tube to Green Park, then a walk to Buckingham Palace. One flag was up, so I’m guessing the Queen was home?
We strolled along Constitution Hill to Wellington Arch and the Australian War Memorial — a semicircular wall of Western Australian granite, listing 47 battles and 23,844 Aussie hometowns of soldiers. Very moving.
Across the road to Hyde Park Corner, then along Piccadilly to the Hard Rock Cafe for our first meal of the day — delicious, and the museum across the road thrilled Ryan, especially the six-million-pound Jimi Hendrix guitar. Fun fact: Hendrix was naturally left-handed but forced to play right-handed by his dad, so he restrung right-handed guitars to play left-handed. Ryan, who’s right-handed for everything but guitar, felt a kinship.
We hopped on a double-decker bus, had the top deck to ourselves, and headed to Piccadilly Circus where we spent some time, even got a photo with a cop! A quick stop at sports store Lillywhites, then onto Trafalgar Square. I tried to recreate a photo I took there in 1980 — no luck.
Finally, a walk back to Charing Cross Station and train home.
Thanks, Glen, for your directions on getting from St Pancras to our Airbnb in Blackheath — lifesaver!
28th March – London
Slept in till after 9am — we must’ve been tired.
We headed into London from Charing Cross Station, walked past Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament, and snapped some pics on Westminster Bridge (the oldest road bridge in central London, built in 1862).
We wandered Parliament Square past statues of Churchill, Gandhi, Mandela, Lincoln, and others. Outside Westminster Abbey, Rayls decided the £20 entry fee was a rip-off and gave it a miss.
We caught a bus to Liverpool Street Station, but it wasn’t near the Tower of London like I thought — took a taxi the rest of the way.
At the Tower, a bloke gave us two unused tickets — saving nearly $100! Rayls and Ryan toured, I chilled at KFC with Wi-Fi.
Then a quick snap of Tower Bridge, tube to Oxford Circus, and a visit to Liberty, a fancy department store where Rayls spent 90 minutes. Ryan and I explored nearby music shops.
Caught the bus back, met up with Rayls, then tube and train home.
Ryan ordered pizza for dinner — that was an adventure in itself.
The World Cup final kicks off at 4:30am here. Hopefully I can sleep through it and wake to a win.
29th March – London
Not much sleep — the World Cup started early! Ryan and I woke to NZ 3 down, checked scores off and on. Eventually saw 8 wickets down, then all out. Aussies were 2 down for nearly 100 when we left.
Train to Victoria Station, struggled for Wi-Fi at Maccas until Ryan finally got through — Australia had won! Lots of excitement but nobody else seemed to care. We celebrated with a proper breakfast nearby.
We bussed it to Oxford Street; Rayls checked out Selfridges, Marks and Spencer, Debenhams. It was cold and wet.
Caught tube to Charing Cross, then Rayls headed home while Ryan and I got the bus and train to Gatwick, where we picked up a rental car for our countryside adventure.
Back in Blackheath by 6pm, cold and tired. Lost an hour for daylight saving too.
Hearing Mark Taylor say “Australia are Champions of the World” made it all worth it.
30th March – Day in the Country
We asked Sophie, our Blackheath host, if we could stay another night — she was fine.
So instead of staying in the country overnight, we day-tripped and returned to Blackheath — less hassle.
First stop: Guildford, 43 km southwest of London. Ryan wanted to see Andertons Music Company — a guitar lover’s paradise. Ryan got to chat with “Captain” Lee Anderton, which was a thrill.
Rayls checked out a Laura Ashley store with 50% off — but no purchases.
Then onto Stonehenge — one of the world’s most famous sites. I enjoyed it more than expected. Only drawback was the freezing wind — made it tough to listen to the audio guide with hands in pockets.
Afterwards, home for KFC dinner. Ryan did the driving — 403 km — great job.
31st March – London to Paris
Today we made our way back to Paris.
We started out in Blackheath, packed and ready to go. It was an OK place, the only Airbnb we kind of shared — our host Sophie was away, so we had the place to ourselves. It didn’t have a shower but a bath. Now, I don’t want anyone picturing me in the bath, but getting in and out was a challenge. Deep tub, my weight, and a sore shoulder made it tricky. I can see how people have accidents in the bath — easy to slip.
After breakfast, we drove to the Royal Observatory in Greenwich — home of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) and the Prime Meridian (Longitude 0º). Every place on Earth is measured east or west from this line, which divides the eastern and western hemispheres, just as the Equator divides north and south. The views over London were spectacular. The Observatory buildings include a museum of astronomical and navigational tools, notably John Harrison’s prize-winning marine chronometer, the H4, and its three predecessors.
After the Observatory, we headed to Gatwick Airport, way too early for our 6pm EasyJet flight — got there around 1pm. Ryan returned the rental car, which he’d driven so well.
Checking in was a nightmare — they told us we were too early and to come back half an hour later, then an hour later, before finally letting us check in on the third attempt. Security caught a sewing kit Rayls bought, but it was OK after inspection.
EasyJet don’t announce gate numbers until about 35 minutes before departure, so it was a mad rush. First gate 107, then changed to 104 after we’d rushed there, only to find the plane wasn’t at the gate yet. A total disaster with no info and lots of misinformation. We finally boarded at 6:25pm and took off closer to 7pm. The flight from Gatwick to Charles de Gaulle took just 44 minutes.
After landing, a bored bloke stamped our passports, quick bag pickup, no customs, then to Terminal 3 where I had booked the Ibis Hotel (same as a week ago). The hotel was OK but no Wi-Fi tonight — no way to update this blog. Front desk said it’d take an hour or so. Long day. Never say never, but I hope never again for Gatwick Airport, EasyJet, and the Ibis at CDG.
1st April – Paris and Beyond
Back in my favourite place, Paris! Yippee!
Before checking out, I complained to the Ibis front desk about the Wi-Fi. They promise to fix any room problem in 15 minutes or your room is free — but that apparently doesn’t apply to Wi-Fi. The guy behind the counter just shrugged and couldn’t have cared less. I asked for the manager, who was polite but basically suggested we use Wi-Fi at a nearby hotel. Ridiculous.
When I checked out, the shrug guy looked at me and walked off. Two others fiddled with paperwork while I placed the key firmly on the counter and walked out. I’m looking forward to the “How Did We Go” survey for this stay. I also got an EasyJet survey — will do that with passion, maybe get Ryan to do it since he was more annoyed. TripAdvisor needs to hear about both too.
Anyway…
We picked up the rental car and braved Paris once again.
Ryan drove us to Père Lachaise Cemetery, one of Paris’s most visited spots. Rayls and I have visited plenty of cemeteries, interesting being near famous people no longer with us. We mainly wanted to see Jim Morrison’s grave — lead singer of The Doors who died in Paris in 1971. The cemetery has tombs ranging from simple headstones to towering monuments and mini chapels, some the size of a phone booth. It’s still active and accepts new burials, but rules mean only people who lived or died in Paris can be buried here. Plots are scarce, with long waiting lists.
We also visited the graves of Frédéric Chopin, Édith Piaf, and Oscar Wilde. Wilde’s monument attracts thousands yearly — visitors kiss it after applying lipstick, leaving “kiss prints.” In 2011 a glass barrier was erected to make it kiss-proof, but we still saw hundreds of marks.
After a couple of interesting hours, we drove through narrow streets to Porte de Vincennes Metro Station, and after much difficulty parked the car. We decided to be adventurous and caught the number 86 bus into central Paris.
Traffic was crazy. Ryan drove with one hand on the wheel and the other scratching his head, wondering what other drivers and pedestrians were up to. Just like London, you see cars parked anywhere — intersections, footpaths, you name it.
Once off the bus, we walked along the Seine to Notre Dame Cathedral, one of the finest examples of French Gothic architecture and among the largest and most famous churches in the world. Nearly $40 to enter Westminster Abbey, but Notre Dame was free. Very interesting inside — 850 years old and full of history.
We thought about a Seine cruise, but it was getting late and we were tired and cranky — not like me at all!
We caught the bus back to the car and escaped Paris.
Stopped about 40 km out of Paris for a nice dinner at Buffalo Grill in Les Mureaux, then on to Chaufour-les-Bonnières, where we’re staying in a lovely little hotel called Les Nymphéas.
2nd April – Monet and Heilly
Today we traveled from our overnight stop to the village of Heilly, just outside Amiens. This area saw intense fighting during WWI, and many Australians fought here.
Earlier in the day, we visited Claude Monet’s House and Garden in Giverny. Being early in the season, the gardens weren’t nearly as colorful as they will be in summer, but it was still worth the visit. The house itself was fascinating, and we spent a couple of enjoyable hours exploring.
Tomorrow we’ll begin visiting many WWI sites scattered around the area. This time next week we’ll be on the plane flying home. It’s been a tough few weeks—busy and enjoyable, but with little time to rest. I’m glad I messed up my leave dates because it means I have an extra week off when I get home.
Last night Rayls watched a Steven Seagal movie on TV. Bad enough at the best of times, but this was dubbed in French. So bad, it was funny! We’ve even watched episodes of Friends dubbed in French—kind of weird!
3rd April – WWI: Standing in the Trenches at Le Hamel
The main reason for this trip was to visit WWI sites important to Australia, so over the next few days we’ll be driving to these.
This morning was cold, overcast, and misty—somehow fitting for the day. The wet and cold seemed a small price to pay.
We started at the Villers–Bretonneux Australian National Memorial, near the commune of Villers–Bretonneux in the Somme département. The memorial lists 10,773 names of Australian Imperial Force soldiers with no known grave who died between 1916 and the war’s end. It also serves as the national memorial to all Australian dead on the Western Front. A very moving place, with many graves marked “soldier unknown.”
Next, we visited the Victoria School, home to the Franco-Australian Museum. It tells the story of Australia’s involvement here and the ongoing relationship with the town through objects, letters, and memorabilia. On a wall in the playground was a large sign: “Never Forget Australia.”
Then it was on to the Australian Corps Memorial Park, on a hill east of Le Hamel village near the Somme River. This memorial commemorates over 100,000 Australians who served with the Australian Corps from 1916-1918. The memorial sits on the final objective of the Battle of Hamel (4 July 1918), the first attack planned and led by General Sir John Monash. It’s very informative and close to where the Red Baron was shot down.
We also visited the Mont Saint-Quentin Australian War Memorial in Picardy, dedicated to the Australian Second Division—of which Rayls’s grandfather, James Kinsella, was a part. It’s oddly located on a small residential block with houses either side, but I imagine on warmer days people gather around.
Lastly, we toured the Museum of the Great War near the heart of the Somme battlefields. It’s housed in the Château de Péronne, a castle in the town.
We ended the active part of the day with a pleasant walk around Péronne town center.
Now I sit in the car park near our little hotel. The internet is patchy, so I’m too cold and wet to sit outside. Dusk is settling, and Rayls and Ryan are watching The A-Team dubbed in French — very weird. Lots of photos taken, but the internet is too poor to upload them.
4th April – WWI: Bullecourt Museum and Amiens Cathedral
I think I figured out why I prefer other countries to France. In places like the USA, customer service is king. In France, it feels like the customer has to fit into whatever the provider offers, no questions asked.
This morning, we left our hotel in Heilly and headed into Amiens for our usual McDonald’s breakfast. We arrived at 9:30am only to find the restaurant didn’t open till 10am. Unbelievable. So we went to Amiens Cathedral first. Another Gothic masterpiece — incredible inside and out. They were setting up chairs for tomorrow’s service, which must be a big deal.
Next, we traveled to Bellenglise to continue following the Australian Remembrance Trail. The Fourth Australian Division Memorial is out of town, down a wet, muddy track — our car now looked like something out of the Leyland Brothers! The memorial stands on the heights above Bellenglise on what was the Hindenburg Line.
Then came three memorials close together: the First Australian Division Memorial at Pozières, the Thiepval Memorial in Thiepval, and The Windmill at Pozières. The Windmill marks a ridge where more Australian sacrifices were made than anywhere else on earth. Over seven weeks in 1916 during the Battle of the Somme, the Australian Imperial Force suffered 23,000 casualties, with over 6,700 deaths, around this countryside.
In Bullecourt, the Jean and Denise Letaille Museum tells the story of the bloody battles fought there by Australians, through a vast collection of artifacts gathered from the battlefields. A great tribute.
We ended the day in Arras. Tomorrow we hope to reach Belgium — fingers crossed it’s open!
5th April – Back to Belgium
We’re back in Belgium staying with Viviane, where our trip began three weeks ago.
Our last day in France was spent visiting Fromelles, home to the VC Corner Australian Cemetery and Memorial.
V.C. Corner Australian Cemetery And Memorial, Fromelles
Le Trou Aid Post Cemetery
Then we crossed the border into Belgium, heading to Ploegsteert to visit the Toronto Avenue Cemetery—an exclusively Australian burial ground. Nearby was a memorial showing how football helped link the two sides, with friendly matches played between battles. There was even a recreation of trenches with no-man’s land (mud and barbed wire) in between.
Ploegsteert Wood and Military Cemetery
Museum Dugout Trenches and nearby
There are hundreds, if not thousands, of cemeteries and memorials throughout northern France and Belgium, all commemorating allied troops from WWI. It made me wonder what happened to the German and WWII dead.
The last two memorials on the Australian Remembrance Trail were Tyne Cot Cemetery and the charming town of Ypres, where we witnessed the unforgettable nightly remembrance ceremony at the Menin Gate.
At Tyne Cot stands the Great Cross. Beneath its stone pedestal lie the remains of a German concrete bunker captured by the 3rd Australian Division on 4 October 1917.
Tyne Cot - It is the largest cemetery for Commonwealth forces in the world
There are hundreds, if not thousands, of cemeteries and memorials throughout northern France and Belgium, all commemorating allied troops from WWI. It made me wonder what happened to the German and WWII dead.
The last two memorials on the Australian Remembrance Trail were Tyne Cot Cemetery and the charming town of Ypres, where we witnessed the unforgettable nightly remembrance ceremony at the Menin Gate.
At Tyne Cot stands the Great Cross. Beneath its stone pedestal lie the remains of a German concrete bunker captured by the 3rd Australian Division on 4 October 1917.
In Ypres, Rayls checked out the In Flanders Fields Museum, which highlights Australia’s connection with the town and its defence through Australian exhibits. We walked around the town for a few hours before heading to the Menin Gate at 7pm. Since July 1928, buglers from the Last Post Association—local men connected with the volunteer fire brigade—have played the Last Post here every evening except during WWII. This nightly tribute, started by Ypres’ Chief of Police Pierre Vandenbraambussche, honors the British Empire’s sacrifice. It was a deeply moving ceremony and a wonderful tribute.
6th April – Back to Holland!
Today was one of the best of the trip. My cousin Arjen invited us to meet up with his sister Tooske and their mother Riny in Castricum, just north of Amsterdam. We’d seen Arjen and Tooske two weeks ago but hadn’t seen Riny since our 1980 trip — 35 years ago!
We spent nearly five hours together, reminiscing and laughing. Riny, in her mid-80s, was sharp and full of humor. Both Ryan and I got beaten to a joke by Tooske, which just shows how weird her sense of humor is! I’m not much of a social person, but I had a wonderful time and felt so lucky to have this quality time with extended family.
After a visit to the house, we headed to the nearby beach—Egmond aan Zee on the North Sea. The weather was lovely, and we enjoyed a walk and a meal at a beachside restaurant.
All too soon it was time to head back to Belgium. We hit a serious traffic jam caused by an accident but made it home by 9:30pm.
7th April – Antwerp
Viviane took us on a tour of Antwerp today. She’s a great guide, and we learned a lot about this historic city.
My bone-on-bone left knee struggled and is definitely in need of a rest — probably replacement — but that’s a story for another time.
Antwerp has a population of about half a million, making it Belgium’s most populous city. It sits on the River Scheldt, connected to the North Sea via the Westerschelde estuary.
The train station, dating from 1905, boasts two monumental neo-baroque façades and a 60-metre-high metal and glass dome. Absolutely magnificent.
We walked to the shopping precinct, where we all bought clothes—Ryan got a cool cardigan!
We visited the former home of the artist Rubens and then went up to the 10th floor of the Museum aan de Stroom for a great view of the city. A pleasant walk along the river followed, and we enjoyed lunch, afternoon tea, and even some real Australian ice cream.
Public transport into and out of Antwerp was challenging for the drivers navigating the narrow streets—but better them than me!
The weather was sunny and about 13°C. A very pleasant but tiring day.
8th April – Brugge
Our last full day of the trip saw us drive about 100 km to Brugge.
Brugge is famous for its lace and beer, so both Rayls and Ryan were happy! Like Amsterdam, it’s a canal town.
The historic centre has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2000.
We checked out the Church of Our Lady, whose brick spire reaches 122 metres (336 steps to the top, apparently!).
Brugge’s most famous landmark is its 13th-century belfry, which houses a municipal carillon of 48 bells that played nearly all day — everything from Beethoven to the Beatles.
We took a fun canal cruise, where we nicknamed our skipper “Boof” because he was bald and looked a bit like the Australian cricket coach.
Lunch was in the town square, with many restaurants. Ryan got to try some local beers. Rayls finally got to a quilt shop, but it was disappointing — dirty and poor service. She did pick up some lace, though.
A good day and our last in Europe.
We got home around 5:30pm, had a light dinner, and did some packing before bed.
9th April – Going Home
Here I am, nearly 12,000 metres above Germany, flying from Brussels to Abu Dhabi, and then onwards to Perth.
Many thanks to Viviane and Roger for looking after us while we stayed in Belgium. Viviane certainly more than repaid us for having her at our house many years ago.
We arrived at the airport well ahead of time, but dealing with the car rental people was a bit of a hassle. They wanted to charge us about $40 for an eighth of a tank of diesel even though we had filled the car to the brim at the airport. The fuel gauge never quite showed full, always just below, even after a full fill-up. After talking to the manager, they finally waived the fee. They were happy to charge us if it showed 7/8 full but wouldn’t accept it when it showed 7/8 full. Even if it was 7/8, how does that translate to $40? That would mean a $320 fill-up, but we only put in $60 when the fuel light came on.
Check-in, immigration, and security were as smooth as possible. Boarding was early, which was great — no mad dash to get everyone on board. We were all seated 15 minutes before departure, though we pushed back 3 minutes late.
The flight was uneventful, and we landed in Abu Dhabi at 7:51pm (11:51 Perth time). It was already dark. Taxiing to the gate took forever — seriously, the airport should be closer to the runways! Then we had to take a bus to the terminal. For the 21st century, that felt pretty outdated.
Security was underwhelming. The person monitoring the scanner seemed disinterested. I saw three bags pass through unmonitored. Rayls went through the metal detector and was told she needed a search by a female guard, but we couldn’t find anyone, so she walked through unchallenged. Then, before entering the departure gate area, there’s another search. No drinks are allowed past this point — and ironically, there are no drinks for sale beyond it either. So if you buy a drink after the first checkpoint, you can’t take it with you. Not a fan of Abu Dhabi airport at all.
Everyone was on board 10 minutes before the 10:25pm departure, but the captain announced a delay of about an hour waiting for an air traffic control slot. We finally pushed back at 11:29pm and took off at 11:54pm.
The flight was fine, though there was a young Italian gentleman across the aisle who looked very stressed during takeoff. Rayls spoke to him and learned he had a recent heart diagnosis, which, combined with the stress and fatigue of flying, caused his distress. Flight staff took good care of him, but as he needed to get to Fremantle by public transport, Ryan kindly drove him home.
We landed at Perth at 2:30pm, and all formalities went smoothly. Out by 2:54pm.
Thanks to Geoff and Sue for picking us up — it’s so good to be home.
10th April – Home
We’re home again and happy to be back with Hunter. Scott and Shannon are still in the USA for a couple more weeks.
It was a good trip, but definitely hard work — much tougher than the USA, where we usually have plenty of time to relax.
For a grumpy old man, I actually really enjoyed spending time with relatives and friends, which is unusual for me.
We most enjoyed the countries where people spoke English — the Netherlands, Belgium, and to a lesser extent Germany. Ryan and I didn’t really like France, especially Paris. Of course, this was partly because we couldn’t speak the language, but it’s always nicer to be in a place where they make an effort for tourists.
The countryside was magnificent everywhere we went. It would be even better in summer, but traveling at this time of year meant smaller crowds. I especially enjoyed the smaller towns in France, wandering around the town squares — very pleasant.
We were lucky with the weather. It was cold, usually around 9°C, with some drizzle, but overall pretty good for the time of year.
London was great, thanks to Glen’s expert guidance. Maybe next time we need someone like that for Paris. I’ll always remember being at Maccas near Victoria Station when we finally got the news that Australia had won the Cricket World Cup. The yelling and hugging — such a precious moment.
Ryan did the majority of the driving and found it tough — narrow roads and drivers who seemed to care about no one. When he got home and drove to Fremantle, he couldn’t believe how easy it was!
That’s it for another one – thanks for reading along!
Gaz
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